Thailand Part II, the return of Thailand

Since we're heading to the English-speaking, developed world of Oceania in just a short while, we're using this stint in Thailand to take full advantage of low cost goods and services. We arrived in Bangkok on December 20^th, checked in with our old friends at the Atlanta, and went to work on Phase I of our stock-up strategy.

Day 1: We hit the cheap mall (MBK) for bargain threads to replace the duds in need of retirement. The clothes there are plentiful, cheap, and uniquely Thai. Which means we're both rocking a groovier style than usual, although I have yet to give in to the harem pant that's the uniform of travelers in SE Asia.  Its hard to resist a crotch that hits at the ankle, but I've employed an iron will. We saw “The Social Network” and ate another amazing dinner at the Siam Paragon food court.

Day 2: We had met brother-sister team Trevor and Ashley on our flight from Phnom Penh and they came along to the Atlanta with us. Trevor was having a suit made and spoke highly of the Bangkok tailor he'd been using. So, we hit Raja's Shop on Sukhumvit in the morning and chose material for 7 shirts (the 7^th one's free, of course) for Eduardo. In the afternoon we visited the much-beloved V. Siam Optical to get some new specs for Ed. Then we wandered the trendy Thonglor neighborhood, visited the Thai Center for Design and ate mind-blowing street noodles. By evening the glasses were ready for pick up and we and headed back to Raja's for a fitting. They're gorgeous, the work is flawless, and each costs less than a shirt from the Gap.

Day 3: Kicked off the day with the Herald Trib and pots of our favorite coffee in Thailand at the Atlanta dining room. Then to the Bangkok post office to mail home souvenirs and excess crap. A 5.5 kg box to the US for about $35. Can't beat it. Also not beaten? The train to the BK airport which runs every 15 minutes, takes 25 in travel time, and costs $.50/person. How does New York not have this? And I mean from the island of Manhattan, none of this Queens Airtrain b.s.

On our return to Bangkok in 10 days or so, Phase II will commence with the purchase of contact lenses, prescription medication, teeth cleaning at the fancy dental spa, and anything else we can justify buying. Its going to be Thai-style “Supermarket Sweep” but with gauzy tops and hand tooled leather. Woot.

(Kids that day on Sukumvit singing carols.  Brought to you by Citibank.  Which, obviously, is why Santa is wearing blue.)

Oh, Saigon.

We were sadsosad to leave Thailand.  Our expectations, particularly of Bangkok, weren't meteorically high and were surpassed in every category.  Plus, we made friends at the beach with an awesome couple, Chelsey & Dave, and traveled back to Bangkok with them.  We all stayed at the Atlanta and had fun times and foods and laughs and puppies.  We were comfy and complacent and full of fruit shakes and it was like ripping off a band aid to come here.

Our Friends:

The puppy:

Our very first experience in Saigon was with a taxi driver who tried several tacts to overcharge us.  We had agreed upfront that he would use the meter but as soon as we were out of the airport parking lot he started to ask whether we knew how much it would be, would rather pay a flat rate, that there would be other charges, etc.  When he realized that we weren't turnips who were ready to hand him our dong (its the currency, I'm not being dirty) he tried to leave us on the side of the road in monsoon force rains.  After refusing his kind offer of being ripped off and deserted, the 3 of us had to spend a purgatorial hour and a half in rain drenched traffic together, grumbling.


We're staying in the heart of downtown Saigon, district 1.  And, yet, the next morning and each subsequent we've been awoken by a rooster crowing at dawn.  I'm starting to miss the call to prayer and dog howling in Lanta.  As unwelcome 5 am wake ups go, it was a bit less grating.  This city is loud, crazy cacophony all day, all night, always.  The power goes out fairly often and the pollution makes Hong Kong look like Mongolia.

But, we're adjusting.  Its now day 5 and we've had some amazing times and have figured out how to cross the lawless six lane roads choked with motorbikes.  We're eating bahn mi like we've just come home from fat camp and today spoke to a travel company about our trip to the Mekong.  Vietnam didn't make the best first impression, but we're going on a few more dates before we flee and return to the loving arms of Thailand.

Bangkok Flash

I went to India for work a few years ago and beforehand I had visions of an exotic, balmy, colorful place. I thought Southern Asia would have the vibrant nuttiness that staid and steady North Asia lacks. And while there are undeniable elements of beauty, my impression of Mumbai wasn't what I'd pictured.  My romantic visions were overwhelmed by unfathomable slums, pollution-browned waters, and crushing poverty.  Bangkok, on the other hand, is what I thought Mumbai might be. A city that's a bit ancient, a lot modern while colorful, spicy, flashy, and full of kind hearted souls.

The monuments to the monarchy and to Buddhism are no exceptions. I love that Thailand's mantra seems to be 'go big or go home.' Surely one of the most impressive sights we've seen, The Grand Palace in Bangkok is a castle, a temple, the King's residence, an outdoor museum, and a park all rolled up into a tidy package where you're not allowed to wear shorts or tanktops. Gaudy?Absolutely, but no one ever accused the Thai of lacking in flair.  Subtlety isn't the fashion here, and the extreme is evident everywhere from the aspirational Skytrain to the bell-ringingly spicy food.  We're gonna miss it mightily.

The Atlanta to Koh Lanta

The day went like this.

6:30 a.m. alarm => taxi => plane => minivan => ferry => minivan => ferry => minivan

But then:

One Day in Bangkok

A couple of days ago, we planned and executed what amounted to the perfect day in Bangkok. Although the US dollar has shat itself, our money still goes far in this part of the world. Much, much farther than at home or in Tokyo, por ejemplo. It didn't take long for us to seek and find affordable luxury in Thailand. And I'm not (just) talking about the hookers.

We woke up and had brekkie in our hotel. We love the pancakes, but also that we get a side of time travel, gratis. Pics of the place coming rather than embedded due to 3rd world wireless.  The dining room is religiously preserved, the only nods to modernity are wireless internet and diet coke.

After breakfast, Skytrain to massages at Healthland Massage. As one might imagine, it takes a bit of research to nail down a reputable spa in Bangkok. Some googling and elimination of the words “exotic” “happy” and “soapy” in the results did the trick. I knew we were in for just the prudish experience we were after when the receptionist insisted we have same-sex therapists. The massages were painful in the Thai way and we rolled out of there lump of clay-like.

Starved after a rough morning, we headed to a street side warehouse lined with food stalls. We ate more than is appropriate to write about. We also provided plenty of entertainment for the vendors, who looked on in astonished curiosity as we took the first bites of chili soaked noodles. So good. So much sweating. They seemed pleased.

In the afternoon, we hit the famous Jim Thompson home. Its a veritable complex of original teak houses imported and furnished by the exotic American silk importer. Sadly, he lived in the house for only 8 years before disappearing on a vacation in the Malaysian jungle. The Buddhist antiques he collected (that's the nice word for it) in his time in Thailand are truly special pieces.

We walked along one of Bangkok's many canals to get back to central where we planned to see a movie, on Molly's recommendation. On our way back through the sky walk, we wondered onto the set of a commercial. We watched 2 takes of teams of hip hop kids dance fighting – fortunately we had just watched most of “You Got Served” while in Tokyo so we could follow the nuanced plot. We were definitely in the shot, so if you happen across Thai TV (I'm guessing an ad for extreme soda) look for us farang!

The Siam Paragon makes the Short Hills mall look like a Caldor in the 80s. Coined “The Jewel of Bangkok,” its not just a mall, its a mecca to consumerism and the movie theater is appropriately grand. We got the cheap seats and were treated to monstrous leather chairs in a stadium theater. Apparently, the first class theaters offer individual lazy boys and cocktail service. Next time...

Any guide book or food nerd research will tell you that aside from street food, the best eating to be done in Bangkok is in the mall food courts. At the Siam, there are probably 40 sit down restaurants and another 60 stalls. We opted for the prepaid card to be swiped at several stalls and had an amazingly delicious feast for about $7.

On our way home we saw a festival going on at the noted Erawan Shrine.  The long walk through the city and back to the 50s was breezy and tropical.  A day of super fun planned stuff and happy accidents along the way. Done and done.

A petite math riddle, if you will...

We arrived in Bangkok last night and are staying at the Lynch-esque Atlanta hotel.  I'm obsessed with this place, recommended by Molly, photos to come.  Coming here from Tokyo feels like being dropped in an 80s video that overtly glamorizes colonialism after living in the land of robots.  Tokyo was so tightly run, measured, calm, unbelievably quiet.  Bangkok is gritty and chaotic and lacking in scruples.  We're having a really good time so far.

I've mentioned before that geography is not really my strong suit, yes?  I can visualize a map of Asia in my mind grapes (Ed has handily also made it the wallpaper on our laptop to help me learn good), and yet I'm constantly amazed by how far apart things are.  Do you know how long it takes to get to Thailand from Japan?  Me neither, but it is a LOT longer than I thought it would be.  Which leads me to a math problem that I've been turning over in my sleep deprived brain since we boarded the plane yesterday.

Our flight from Tokyo departed, on schedule, at 6:30 p.m.  The arrival time indicated on the ticket was 11:45 p.m.  According to both the United website and our turbulence-challenged captain, the estimated flight time was 6 hours and 15 minutes.  The timezone in Bangkok is 2 hours behind Tokyo.

Am I cray-cray, or did I lose an hour of my life?