Showing posts with label Tokyo. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tokyo. Show all posts

Saturday, November 6, 2010

A petite math riddle, if you will...

We arrived in Bangkok last night and are staying at the Lynch-esque Atlanta hotel.  I'm obsessed with this place, recommended by Molly, photos to come.  Coming here from Tokyo feels like being dropped in an 80s video that overtly glamorizes colonialism after living in the land of robots.  Tokyo was so tightly run, measured, calm, unbelievably quiet.  Bangkok is gritty and chaotic and lacking in scruples.  We're having a really good time so far.

I've mentioned before that geography is not really my strong suit, yes?  I can visualize a map of Asia in my mind grapes (Ed has handily also made it the wallpaper on our laptop to help me learn good), and yet I'm constantly amazed by how far apart things are.  Do you know how long it takes to get to Thailand from Japan?  Me neither, but it is a LOT longer than I thought it would be.  Which leads me to a math problem that I've been turning over in my sleep deprived brain since we boarded the plane yesterday.

Our flight from Tokyo departed, on schedule, at 6:30 p.m.  The arrival time indicated on the ticket was 11:45 p.m.  According to both the United website and our turbulence-challenged captain, the estimated flight time was 6 hours and 15 minutes.  The timezone in Bangkok is 2 hours behind Tokyo.

Am I cray-cray, or did I lose an hour of my life?

Thursday, November 4, 2010

What did you do while you were in Tokyo, Rodney?

Um, went to the 100 Yen store, mostly.  Why? Because it is my favorite place in Tokyo, if not on earth.

Molly took us to the 100 Yen store in our neighborhood on our first full day in Tokyo.  In the 5 subsequent weeks, we've been dozens of times; sometimes twice in a day.  We've taken visitors, bought gifts, and spent rain soaked hours just browsing the aisles.

The concept is akin to the dollar store but there is more of a focus on crafts and home decor and the stuff is amazingly high quality.  As I've been packing up today and organizing the apartment, I'm astonished by how bad ass the stuff we bought there is.  A brief summary of my favorite scores, each for about $1.20:

Fleece lined winter hat, which is actually cute and I'm wearing as I type.
Soy sauce
Bathmat
Crazy high quality nail polish that didn't chip for weeks
A set of 4 prettily painted wooden chopsticks
Package of 10 arty cards to accompany gifts
Sharp knife for cooking
Speakers for the the laptop
Surge protector
Black leggings
Set of 2 handtowels

I could really go on and on about this place and its awesomeness.  Suffice it to say, our stay here was made far more comfortable by the creature comforts afforded to us at rock bottom prices, courtesy of the Sensa store in Sangenjaya.

Mt. Fuji; like Where's Waldo for adults, the Japanese

The first time I came to Tokyo was on a business trip when I was 23.  Our office was in a glass box high in a skyscraper and on my first nerve wracking day someone pulled me aside, pointed out the window, and said "On a clear day, you can see Mt. Fuji from here."  I looked out that window every morning and every evening for 2 weeks.  I saw fog.

Since then, I've lost count of the number of times and places that the phrase has been repeated.  I've made several trips to Tokyo in the last 10 years and have only seen the famed peak in photos.  At the top of Sunshine City in Ikebukuro, on a hill in Ome, from a bar in Ginza, on the roof of the Mori, and plenty of other places, people have signaled to where the mountain would be if only the seemingly mystical conditions for its appearance were met.  

We figured our best shot at it was the daytrip we had planned to Mt. Takao.  A lot of photographers go just to shoot the Fuj, so we waited for a day that the weather called for sun and boarded an early train.

You can imagine my excitement, when, about 3 stops before we arrived at Takaosanguchi, I glimpsed the thing between the buildings flying by the train window, looming in the sky.  I roused Ed from his magazine and frantically pointed, much to the amusement of the other passengers.  For once I wasn't at all embarrassed because seeing the mountain seems about as likely as seeing a unicorn.  And if that isn't something to spazz over I don't know what is.

Once we arrived and hiked up trail 6, past waterfalls and through a stream via a boulder path, the view was even better.  And when we climbed to a 2nd, higher peak, we saw it closer and were virtually a private audience.  Ed tried valliantly to capture it but without his hardcore camera gear it was tough.  I still think he did alright:



We leave Tokyo tomorrow.  We love this city, we've had a blast, and I'm sure we'll be back.  But I'm not sure when next I'll have this view.  I'm so glad I saw it at least once, its definitely one for the highlight reel.

Sunday, October 31, 2010

Lousy, just lousy, with Culture

Believe it or not, I've done more in Tokyo than get drunk and eat donuts.  Festivals!  Shopping!  Nieghborhooding!  And museums! 

We've been to a mind-bending range of museums on this trip.  From the janky Mongolian joints featuring historical murals painted by 5 year olds, to the slick as hell, super specific and sometimes imposing halls of Korea, I'd say we're becoming experts.  Here's a brief rundown of those we've made it to in Tokyo:

On Friday afternoon, we hit the Van Gogh exhibit at the National Art Center in Akasaka.  The building is tremendous modern wavy wooden greatness with sessy lighting and a million uncomfortable looking but comfortably sitting chairs.  The exhibit was the most extensive I've seen and the heavy hitter pieces were on loan from Amsterdam.  There was a digital recreation of Room at Arles which was an interesting and scientific only-in-Japan experience.  What was fascinating about viewing the paintings with an all-Japanese audience was their tendency to read all information presented, listen to the audio guide, then check off the pieces as they were viewed.  This happened in silence while shuffling past the work in a line.  I saw hardly anyone hang out for a second to see the detail of what was on the wall.  Far more orderly than a visit to a museum in NYC, but seemingly a bit hasty considering what we were looking at!  I'm sure they were glad to see the back of us as we likely interrupted the flow, but jayz, slow and smell the Irises folks.

Sword Museum in Shinjuku - We hit up the sword museum with Ed's parents during their recent visit.  Its in a residential part of Shinjuku, way off the beaten path.  The museum is basically one room of deconstructed swords from olden times.  Its an impressive collection but if you don't know shit about swords, its kind of hard to understand what you're looking at.  You see, they gave us a booklet in English that explains the forging process and the historical importance and probably some other stuff.  But we smartly skipped the literacy test and headed straight for the main event.  We spent the next hour hypothesizing about what we were seeing rather than having any actual idea.  I figured I'd do the reading in post and then apply the knowledge retroactively, but I've since done neither the reading nor the reflecting and now I just remember a lot of metal in glass cases.  Also, there was a camera crew there and we may have been on Japanese TV.  Hopefully they didn't get any of our astute observations (my, what a pretty hilt?) on film.

Yebisu Beer Museum in Ebisu.  I'm counting this as a museum even though there may have also been a place to drink beer where we spent a touch more time than in the actual exhibit.  Butbutbut, the museum part is extra cool because on display are advertisements and packaging for Yebisu beer dating back to the 1890's.  There are drawings of the old German-style beer halls that were crazy popular in Tokyo in the early 20th century and, of course, plastic food to illustrate the types of bar snacks people served back then (lots of tiny fishes).  Plus, several brews to try.  When we were in Suzhou, China, we went to a silk museum and one of the exhibits was a series of rooms set up to look like a silk farm.  In the harvesting room there were huge bamboo baskets of silk worms.  Thousands of them.  And they were alive and albino and so very creepy and I had bad dreams that night.  All I'm saying is that if I'm going to learn how something is made, I'd prefer that the finale is beer drinking instead of live worm viewing. 

Mori Museum in Roppongi.  The current exhibit, Sensing Nature, is one of the most tightly curated and enjoyable museum experiences I've had.  There isn't a weak point in the show.  Even the video art (sorry dear friend who majored in that) is beautiful and inspiring and 100% watchable.  There are funny moments and serene moments and visually stunning moments and one spooky moment.  I gush.  Also, we watched the sun set from the sky deck/helipad, which has 360 degree views.  Not too shabs.


Edo Tokyo Museum in Ryugoku.  I didn't actually go with Ed and his parents because its, like, 7 floors and I've been before.  But, I'm still going to post about it because Ed went and since we're life partners I get half credit for stuff he does (and vice versa).  If you want to learn about the history of Japan and are too lazy to read Shogun, this museum teaches through countless dioramas and important artifacts.  Really terrific if you're in to that sort of thing.

Tobacco and Salt Museum in Shibuya.  We did this one with Jenny and the highlight was definitely the poster displays (Like the clicky flipping kind from a poster-art store in a mall in the 80s - who's with me? Trumbull? Anyone?) full of old cigarette packs.  Before all the bad PR, smoking was an artform and except for all the beautiful people doing it, nothing about it was more glamorous than the packaging.  We especially enjoyed the limited edition packs produced for the Olympics.  Nothing says sporty....

Off to batten the hatches.  Typhoon #14 is a dooz.

Thursday, October 28, 2010

For all the Mister Donut fans out there...

I just wanted you to know that we were able to "purchase" our inaugural MisDo mug today using points from our frequent fatty card.  This pales in comparison to the collection upstairs, but I'm still equal parts proud/disgusted by our commitment and resulting shwag. 

I'd like to say that our unwavering consumerism was in pursuit of this prize, but I'm not really thinking that our intake is going to slip off now that we've reached 150 points...  I wonder if one ever reaches a point where one is catapulted into a higher level of Mister Donut clubbery.  Like, I would turn in my regular paper card to be updated and the counter person would in turn hand me a Silver card.  You know, something permanent, perhaps with a bit more polish; something that says, "I'm an executive in the elite Mister Donut partnership." 

And then if I graduated from Silver to Gold, someone would discreetly pull me aside and show me the secret handshake, which I would use to gain entry into a back room with leather club chairs and snifters of milk.  And maybe, at the highest level (MisDo Black), toward the end of my life or a move abroad that would prevent me from continuing my habit, Mister Donut himself would visit me with a dozen Pon de Rings in the clubhouse and finally tell me what the hell they put in those donuts that makes them so damn good anyway....

Sunday, October 24, 2010

We were vaguely offended...

when Ed suggested we take a "before" photo.  This was last weekend on a Saturday night out for the four of us.  I borrowed Molly's hairdryer and actually applied makeup, and then we hit the town Tokyo style.

At dinner at one of M&A's favorite burger joints: Burger Mania in Ebisu


Following dinner and a walk through fancy expat-ville, we arrived at Hannah's bangin b-day party where we got down to some soul music dancing and serious cocktailing.  Because the trains here stop running between midnight and 1, we had to split before we would've liked, and the four of us sprinted through a couple of stations to avoid a hefty cab fare.  But when we returned to Sangenjaya, we weren't quite ready to pack it in.  So we hit up Toki's 80's bar, which has no table charge and 500 yen drinks.  Also, an unbelievable selection of 80's music videos, played on request.

A fellow patron, clearly a regular, told us that Toki the proprietor is basically a human Shazam.  The Aussie claims he had hummed countless tunes across the bar and that Toki, without fail, could name that tune (and usually find the accompanying video).  Same dude also schooled us on Jimmy Barnes, the "Australian Bruce Springsteen."  Once we had wrapped up a rock block of Australian 80s music - Air Supply, Men at Work, Midnight Oil, INXS - the dance party started. 

I guess this would be the 'after'...  George Michael, y'all:


There are plenty more museums to be visited, mountains to be climbed, and temples to be awe-struck by on this trip.  But when I look back on our time in Tokyo, I'm certain that one of my fondest memories will be of belting out "Freedom" with my best friend and a bar full of strangers at 2 am in a neighborhood joint.  Followed immediately by a fit of hysterical laughter and a big steaming bowl of ramen.  Best.

Thursday, October 14, 2010

Helpful hints from Kellogg's Japan

As I was folding up Ed's cereal box yesterday to toss into the "Resources Bin," I couldn't help but notice the nifty recipes offered featuring Kellogg's Cornflakes in some unusual ways.  I'm not sure that I'm down for cornflakes on tofu, but cornflakes on black sesame parfait had me at "konichiwa."  I would consider the cornflake clusters shown accompanying coffee, but I'd probs pass on cornflakes floating in minestrone soup.  I'm also going to have to vote no to cornflakes on seafood pancake.  Jury is out on cornflakes atop cup of white stuff.  I don't know what's in there.

Friday, October 8, 2010

Spiders & Snakes & Garbage, Ome

I've been chipping away at my fear of snakes to ready/steady myself for our months in SE Asia.  We're going to be in jungles and we all know what lives there; I'm just going to have to man up and get in touch with my reptilian brain.  Thus far, the only milestone reached is to not shriek and change the channel when there is a snake on TV (see: Modern Family).  I figure if I can handle watching one on TV, my crippling terror when confronted with a giant dangerous live one in Cambodia will be a non-issue.  Right?

The reason I bring up the snake phobia is because this week, despite having read of slithery encounters along the trail, I put on my big girl pants and we went hiking in Ome, a bedroom community in far-west Tokyo.  As is tradition, we got lost in the woods because we didn't bring the GPS.  Like clockwork, seriously.  We had an awesome picnic lunch.  Then the gravelly 2 mile rolling loop we tried to follow (based on a hand drawn Japanese map) to see some temples and a view of Mt. Fuji turned into 3 hours of leisurely wandering followed by 1 hour of back hacking.

As is the case everywhere in Tokyo, post-picnic there was not a gd trash bin for miles.  Its as if these folks are allergic to disposal.  En route from picnic table to trail we passed playgrounds, parking areas and a ball field, and not one bin to toss our bento remains.  As Sue said after carrying an empty paper cup halfway across the city last week, 'I didn't know my coffee came with a side of albatross.'  We've since started calling it garbatross and unless we prepare ourselves to re-enact the stations of the cross in the woods, next time we'll eat before we get on the train.

It was with annoyance and mirin on my shorts that I began the descent through the woods with the trash caribined to my bag.  The first 1/4 of the trail was wide and well trodden.  But as we got lower, the trail got narrower and darker and veered off into the woods.  At which time the movie-prop sized spiderwebs were no longer scenery along the path, but tolls to be paid every 4 feet.

Ed feels similarly about spiders as I do about snakes (though he isn't a big fat baby about it), so I took the lead.  I selected a large branch/small felled tree from the ground and waved it out front as we hiked down.  The grass got tall and I got nervous, but the garbatross slapping against my leg made enough noise to scare an anaconda.  And thus we descended.
 

We walked through here as the sun was setting, defeated the spiders, and avoided the reptiles. 

And, when we got back into town, still had enough day light to see the spooky/best painted vintage movie posters sprinkled throughout the town.  Our team won this day.






    

Sunday, October 3, 2010

Tokyo Calling

Being in Tokyo sort of feels like a vacation from our trip.  We've both spent time here before, its insanely comfortable and completely safe and, most importantly, Molly & Andrew are here!

Molly and I have finally been able to fulfill our lifelong dream of living in the same building.  The cherry on our friendship sundae is that Sue was here for the first few days, and the 3 of us had time for the girlish shenanigans of yore.

All these months, Ed has endured when asked for comment on such pressing topics as: bob haircuts, Lady Gaga's "Alejandro," and ab workouts.  Without fail, he stays engaged and holds eye contact even as his brain shuts down and a small part of his soul withers and dies.  So, I think we were both happy and relieved to turn the estrogen-related responsibilities back over to the professionals.

At a wrestling-themed bar in Golden Gai.  This is prior to robot-hands McCaffrey getting me into a half nelson.  We illustrated a valuable lesson this evening: when caffeinated tea is used as a mixer, everyone stays out later.