Slacky Blogger

Although normally I have blogarrhea, with so much to say and so little time for 'putering, the last few days I've been taking in a lot more than typing out.  After leaving Sokcho, we traveled to Samcheok for some quality time in the penis park (more on that in a moment).  The following day, we headed to Gangneung for a morning bus to train layover, then came to Andong where we've been for a few days.  Tomorrow we set off again and will be in Gyeongju by mid-afternoon, learning more about the Shilla dynasty than we ever thought possible.  Particularly because we didn't know what it was...

I weirdly miss Sokcho and often think about canning the rest of our Korea itinerary and heading straight back there.  Hanging our hats for 10 whole days put us in a completely different mindset - toiletries unpacked, favorite restaurants visited twice, a couple of afternoons in the rain reading on the covered porch...  Plus, we miss Yoo and his awesome dog.

I learned an interesting lesson staying at that place....  I've always figured that working in a hotel must be awful.  People are rude, have asinine expectations, think they should behave like idiots because they're paying for the priveledge, etc.  I, too, have been a testy business traveler; late for my flight, annoyed that the express checkout function on the TV didn't work, impatiently extending and retracting the handle on my rolly bag because there is a line at the front desk and I need to GO.  Eventually faced with a facially placid and verbally insincere hotel employee who at once apologizes for the delay and then asks whether everything was ok, and, wouldiliketoprovidemyemailforfuturespecials even though CLEARLY I just want to get the eff out of here I, too, have been a not exceptionally polite version of me. 


Anyway, everyone who does work in the accommodations biz should take a page from Yoo's book.  I challenge even the crustiest road warrior to get angry or impatient with this man.  I think the expression "you get more flies with honey" must have been translated from the original Korean.  Always smiling, always apologizing even when nothing is wrong, always thanking us for doing nothing.  And here, I brought you a ginormous piece of my birthday cake.  And here, I got you some beers and bottled water to take to the train station with you.  And can I please walk you there?

I'm looking at my creative Tshirt-making friends here....  When I get home and my new aura of benevolence leaves all who look upon me sightless, I'd like a T-shirt made and I'd like it to read:  I learned it by watching Yoo.

Yoo's on First

I decided to write this entry after relaying this story to Molly yesterday over Skype because we laughed so hard I nearly choked on my tongue.

We're still in Sokcho and have extended our stay at The House Hostel for 2 more nights because we love it here and also are feeling a teensy bit lazy.  The place we're staying is just perfection and so comfortable; we basically feel like locals, in the most touristy way.  Its just easy livin' and every day we either go to the beach or to the mountains and who can really winge when that's the hardest decision you have to make on a given morning?

The House Hostel is run by a saintly young gent named Yoo.  Its possible that we're setting a record for longest tenancy at his place; Sokcho seems to be more of a long weekend flyover than a 10 night holiday destination.  Since we've been here a week and we talk to him a lot, the confusion caused by his name has been nothing short of Vaudevillian.

R: That's the restaurant Yoo told me about.
E: I've never seen that place, when did I tell you about it?
R: No, Yoo.

or

R: Where'd you get the choco pies? [editor's note: Choco pies are like pinwheels on steroids and were discovered and added to my regular diet in Mongolia.  When I saw the shiny red foil package in Beijing, written in Mandarin, I shrieked like a Chihuahua and bought 4.  Imagine my surprise and unfettered joy at seeing 2 atop the bureau in our room at the hostel.]
E: Yoo gave them to me.
R: I didn't have any.
E: I know, these are both for you.
R: But where did they come from?
E: From Yoo.


Nearly once a day Ed and I miscommunicate about something that Yoo said.  No, I didn't.  Yoo did.  No, I didn't.  And on and on.  Yesterday, this happened and I responded "oh, so funny Ed," and he was like "No, I'm serious, it wasn't me."


But the chart topper was last night, when a Yoo the proprietor vs. You the pronoun misfire nearly caused a relationship scuffle.
R: Is that a bag of laundry for Yoo?
E: I put both of our stuff in.  Its "our laundry," honey.

Naksan Beach!

Because I'm neurotic and a recovering perfectionist, I've put us on a strict regimen of beach visits in the region to ensure that we conduct a full double blind study (5 point scale based on size of swimming area, sand, water temperature and cleanliness, proximity to delicious snacks, jackedness of lifeguards - not because of attraction but sheer awe at the lack of bodyfat - and commutability) so that we can visit that one the most. 

We've been to 4 beaches and today was by far the supremest - Naksan Beach has the right mix of solitude but with enough people to scare off the jellyfish and distract the lifeguards so I can swim past the barrier into deeper water.

Today, unfortch, I was a bit cavalier with the application of sunscreen on my lower half.  The sunburn on my assal region combined with the unreal muscle soreness from yesterday's grueling death march has me staggering and cursing my way up the stairs of our hostel like a drunken 90 year old sailor. 

The beach was amazing, though, and I can't wait to lay on it again.  Ed is threatening to make me wear his pajama pants if we go back tomorrow to ensure I don't inflict any further damage to my trunk.  I'm weighing these options. 

Ulsanbawi Rock in Sokcho

Today we did one of the hardest hikes I've ever been on.  Ever.  The hike up to Ulsanbawi rock in Seoraksan national park is only about 3 km (Burgie knows conversions?) and the first half is really lulls you into thinking this is no bigs.  There are temples and restaurants nestled along the trail.  Lady cooks are churning out bibimbap and noodles with red pepper paste, the latter of which, as an aside, is my favorite Korean dish and which I've eaten no less than 7 times since entering this country AND which I ask Ed after every bowl if he thinks he will be able to replicate in America because oh my god if I can't have it anymore we're moving to Korea for good.  People look moderately fatigued and are drinking Soju (why not?) at picnic tables and you finish the first half and think, I do not know what all the hoopla is about, that was easy peasy lemon squeezy (2 points, England).  We can probably bang this thing out and have time for another hike this afternoon.

And then you get to a temple that was built in a cave in 652 - can you believe that people were building temples in caves in 652? - doesn't that just seem like infinitely so long ago that it can hardly be possible?  And there is a guy selling soft serve and camp kids throwing ice at each other and then you see a tiny wooden sign that reads "Ulsabawi Rock, 1km."  What the sign should say is "you are so screwed" or, better yet, "it'd be in your best interest to turn back here" because from there you basically climb steep metal stairs which change to steeper metal ladders along sheer rock face for 1 straight kilometer.

Unfortunately, today the fog got so bad that by the time we summited the big rock we didn't have any view.  That said, we were so excited to be at the top and sitting down, we barely cared. 

Here's a picture from the Korea tourism website, our own sweaty shots coming soon:

Sokcho, South Korea

We're in Sokcho, which is a beachy fishing town on the east coast of S. Korea, real close to the 38th parallel.  This is a popular tourist destination for Koreans and Japanese beach goers and also a good launch pad for visiting the DMZ, which we're probably not going to do because there are, like, 10 amazing beaches within a bus ride and the area is known primarily for raw fish.  So, educational day trips are just going to have to take a back seat for the moment.

Today was a gorgeous and perfectly sunny day for our first visit to Sokcho beach.  The Koreans could learn us a few things about beach going.  For example:

- Rather than umbrellas, you rent a big metal and canvass wall that bends in the middle and is propped up by a metal pole.  This provides a huge rectangle of shade and never blows away.  Best.
 - Favored Korean beach snack: hot dog on a stick covered in French Fries.  I had been looking forward to this since we got off the bus on Sunday (I pretty much talked about it all the way from Seoul) and it did not disappoint.  I guess, really, how could it?  Its a hot dog.  And french fries.  On a stick. 
 - People do NOT end their beach day at 5 p.m. to go home and shower and nap before cocktails and this I particularly enjoy.  Why? Because being at the beach is my favorite thing on earth and I would stay there till dark if given the option.  I feel vindicated when, at 6:30, my Korean brethren are just settling in with a bucket of chicken (not kidding) and big beers.  They're probably still there now.  Stay strong, guys.

Um, so onto a couple of really minor points of feedback that I'd probably share for the overall improvement of the beach experience for the local visitors. 

- Science has given us a miraculous lotion that effectively combats UV rays.  Its called sunscreen and can be purchased at the Family Mart across the street from here.  So while I appreciate that modesty dictates y'all aren't going to be wearing thongs and banana hammocks, jeans with hoodies aren't really appropriate swimwear.  We saw dozens of people in long pants or sleeves or both, with hats or hoods or both, in the Pacific today.  Maybe just SPF it up and leave the socks (true story) on shore.

- I realize that a lot of folks around here aren't terribly comfortable in the water.  And, while an inflatable tube/raft/swimmy is a sensible precaution, I feel you guys might be overdoing it.  The roped off swim area at the beach ensures that if you are over 4 ft. 6, you can touch the bottom with your entire head above water even at the highest of tides.  The life vest in concert with a flotation device and a loud shriek every time a 6 inch wave rolls in just feels campy.  Maybe reign it in a drop.

Otherwise good times.  And really enjoyed the lack of open container laws.

See you tomorrow.