I feel I would be remiss if I didn't at least fill you in a little on our last couple of weeks in Korea. In all, we ended up staying in Korea for one month & 2 days, and I really really really think everyone should go there. I saw a T-shirt in a souvenir store that read "Korea: Asia's Best Kept Secret," and I can't say how true that is. I've never known someone to go just to go, but everyone should go, because its gd awesome and, like, the most civilized country on earth.
Our Korea loop, in the end, went like this Seoul -> Sokcho -> Samcheok -> Andong -> Gyeongju -> Busan -> Seoul. Gyeongju was, by far, the historical highlight of the trip. Its often referred to as an "open air museum," which I insisted on saying to Ed in my best wine aficionado voice. Like, it "open air museum, its really earthy but with a nutty finish." I think its funnier when you hear it spoken.
Anywho, Gyeongju was the capital of the Shilla dynasty which means there are shitload of rulers buried there. Fun fact: when kings were entombed back in the day, a pre-selected group of virgins would be lead into the tomb at burial time. Lucky for them, they were given knives so that once the final brick was in place and they were, in essence, buried alive they could off themselves. Same rules for the servants and the royal guard. It must have been crowded in there, but we wouldn't want the king getting lonely in the afterlife. So, these tombs are huge, perfect, mounds sprinkled throughout the city. Some are in parks, some in the mountains, some right in the downtown next to a row of ice cream shops. I called them grass boobs and was originally underwhelmed. But then wizened owl Ed made this sterling observation: what is amazing about these grass boobs is that in the time they were built, people weren't creating monuments of stone or brick. They used what they had available, which was dirt. And using their hands and dirt and engineering, they made something perfectly round and really tall in tribute. Which is kind of rad.
Bulguksa Temple is another fascinating and beautiful site to visit in Gyeongju. We've been to a lot of temples. In China we were palace'd out but in Korea, we were temple'd out. That said, this one was probably the most impressive that we visited. Like all beautiful things in Asia, it was burned to the ground by another Asian nation (this time Japan) and they've been working on the restoration ever since. Its also a Unesco World Heritage site which, if you come to Asia, is a huge freaking deal. Everybody is all Unesco this, World Heritage that. Its like they EGOT'd.
The highlight of Gyeongju for me, though, was a hike up Mt. Namsan. Along the trails there are huge stone Buddha carvings, tiny ancient temples, pagodas, religious relics and more grass boobs all the way to the summit. This allowed us to learn and sweat and be spiritual all at once. Just an awesome, perfect day. Incidentally, followed by one of my favorite Korean meals of the trip.
We're now in Shanghai which is totally awesome because my friend Allison is here! But, we haven't yet quite re-acclimated to the honking and spitting and yelling and general chaos. Korea was like the nerdy, tidy Uncle you like to visit at his house in the Catskills. He makes organic Chicken for dinner and reads Proust by the fire and you admire him, but don't really see the resemblance. China is like your sloppy kid brother. You love him, but you know that a weekend with him is going to be noisy and, inevitably, involve vomit.
Showing posts with label Korea. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Korea. Show all posts
Thursday, September 9, 2010
Saturday, September 4, 2010
Andong da dong dong dong
After the penis park, we went to Andong, which took a while to get to but was totally worthwhile. Andong is famous for historical stuff and also for Soju & cows. We got right into it our first night with an exceptional Andong beef dinner and several rounds of Soju. The next day was pretty quiet, except for a trip to Lotteria for burgers with Thousand Sauce and a screening of “Journey to the Center of the Earth” starring Brendan Frasier (as a scientist). Yes, we watched the entire movie. Yes, we were that hungover.
The coolest thing we saw in Andong was the Hahoe Folk Village, which I called “the HEY-O village” all day. HEY-O sort of talk-yelled, like how Pacino would do. The village is made of traditional hanok houses like in olden times. The locals are descendents of the Yu clan who built it in the 16th century and they still farm and make traditional crafts and do folk mask dance. But also have huge plasma-screen TVs and really nice cars. We actually went to a performance of the mask dancing which featured grating horn music and old men shuffle-stepping around a pavillion in scary-ish wooden masks. Incidentally, Koreans love a drag show. I know I'm really selling it here, but you have to understand our expectations were pretty high. Giant photos of these mask-performances are featured in every train and bus station on the Eastern seaboard; we thought the experience would be transporting, a jewel in Korea's cultural crown, but the whole thing was pretty lame-zone.
Historical deets, for the nerds:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hahoe_Folk_Village
Oh, also at the HEY-O village, we were interviewed for Korean radio. I must say, the questions were pretty leading, like “which of the houses did you enjoy the most?” and “what most impressed you about the village?” This lady claimed to be a journalist (confirmed by her business card), but seemed more like a spokesperson for the Korean Board of Tourism. We did our part, 'oooing and ahhing' the villlage and the day. Remarkable, educational, interesting, beautiful, blahzay blah blah. We're on KBS, but haven't had the patience or the steady internet connection to find the interviews. Whatevs, we're famous.
Wednesday, September 1, 2010
Here comes the story of the hurricane...
There is currently a typhoon headed toward SK. Not a mighty, scary, model-stuck-in-a-tree-in-Thailand-because-of-the-resulting-tsunami typhoon, but a typhoon all the same. My vision of us on the rocky west coast of Korea for our last few days before we return to Seoul has thusly been shattered. We weren't sure exactly where we were headed, but now it definitely isn't West.
We just got up and moving and I'm thinking we'll go to Busan, which is just an hour South of here and not in the direct path of the storm. The weather will probably be crap, but if we can find a motel with a view of the ocean, I might not even care. A balcony would pretty much ensure my happiness for the next 48 hours.
So, I'm going to go and figure out how to get us there. Also, pick up some Rumourpang which is an unnaturelly addictive Korean chain food. What they do, you see, is make these coffee-ish flavored buns that are about the size of your head and the consistency of a crossaint. I imagine there is at least one crack-like ingredient because I literally wake up thinking about these buns.
Gotta go. Buns!
We just got up and moving and I'm thinking we'll go to Busan, which is just an hour South of here and not in the direct path of the storm. The weather will probably be crap, but if we can find a motel with a view of the ocean, I might not even care. A balcony would pretty much ensure my happiness for the next 48 hours.
So, I'm going to go and figure out how to get us there. Also, pick up some Rumourpang which is an unnaturelly addictive Korean chain food. What they do, you see, is make these coffee-ish flavored buns that are about the size of your head and the consistency of a crossaint. I imagine there is at least one crack-like ingredient because I literally wake up thinking about these buns.
Gotta go. Buns!
Tuesday, August 31, 2010
Oh, the glamour....
Sometimes traveling makes you feel like a baller. It is, on occasion, a tiny whiff of what I imagine it feels like to be famous. Particularly in the smaller and less tourist-traffic'd cities and towns we've been to, some locals are pretty amped to see us. Strangers ask us to pose for photos with their families, shop owners ask us to try things on, chefs send us extra stuff, managers of hotels thank us (sincerely) for visiting their city, random old men shake our hands and shout at us in Korean. This last one, the whole "these people will understand my language if I speak it loudly enough" is apparently a global phenomenon. I thought it was just us worldly Americans who did this....
Other times, traveling makes you feel like a hobo. A couple of days ago in Andong, we went to visit the Icheon Dong Buddha which is real famous around those parts. The mosquitos were so bad we couldn't walk without windmilling our arms to keep them from covering our faces. Fortunately, they were scared off by a pounding thunderstorm that brought lightning and torrential rain. This drove us into a bus station covered in spiderwebs where we were treated to a viewing of a shot-glass sized spider catching a moth in its web, mummifying it, and draining it of blood. Then we waited 1.5 hours for the bus.
Last night we were wondering around Gyeongju's downtown and I saw, glowing, from across the street a shop so fabulous & so quintessentially Rodney, that I had to go in and touch each of the garments. That store was called "Thursday Island," and I didn't buy a thing. Because while there are swank moments when I wish I weren't wearing technical fabrics, the reality is that I ended the evening doing our laundry in the sink at our love motel. Which isn't very Thursday Island at all.
Other times, traveling makes you feel like a hobo. A couple of days ago in Andong, we went to visit the Icheon Dong Buddha which is real famous around those parts. The mosquitos were so bad we couldn't walk without windmilling our arms to keep them from covering our faces. Fortunately, they were scared off by a pounding thunderstorm that brought lightning and torrential rain. This drove us into a bus station covered in spiderwebs where we were treated to a viewing of a shot-glass sized spider catching a moth in its web, mummifying it, and draining it of blood. Then we waited 1.5 hours for the bus.
Last night we were wondering around Gyeongju's downtown and I saw, glowing, from across the street a shop so fabulous & so quintessentially Rodney, that I had to go in and touch each of the garments. That store was called "Thursday Island," and I didn't buy a thing. Because while there are swank moments when I wish I weren't wearing technical fabrics, the reality is that I ended the evening doing our laundry in the sink at our love motel. Which isn't very Thursday Island at all.
Sunday, August 29, 2010
Penis Park Penis Park Penis Park
Korea can be a hard place to understand sometimes. There is a prevailing conservatism that doesn't necessarily jive with what you see going on around you. Its hard to pinpoint and verbalize the notion, but often we feel like we're being watched (we are) and someone is waiting for us to commit a major social taboo (we try not to; we don't really care).
To give some examples that might illustrate;
Seemingly acceptable:
Littering
Vomiting in public/public drunkenness
Men using the ladies room when its more convenient & also smoking in public restrooms
Sleeping during work
Fighting in public
Staring for minutes on end at foreigners/hot girls
Not so cool:
Throwing a cup into the garbage that contains liquid
Love motels
Tank tops/sleeveless shirts
Use of hips while dancing on network TV (often filmed waist-up when the gyrating is too much, Elvis-style)
So, you can imagine our surprise when we read about an entire sculpture park of carved penises. We immediately purchased bus tickets and let me just say, it was probably my 3rd favorite day of the whole trip, after the sand dunes in Mongolia and the Great Wall at Shuiguan. The park lies atop a fishing village overlooking a rough, rocky coastline and angry sea. The grounds are immaculately manicured and the flower beds are botanical garden quality. Small wooded nooks along the paths have dong-shaped love seats made from marble, so you can rest and contemplate the ocean. The meditative rock garden includes a large wooden bench carved into phallus. Even the fences on each side of the path leading to a small shrine are posted by, you guessed it, wee members.
Its hard to picture the same old ladies with blouses buttoned to their chins enjoying this diversion. But there they are; in their visors and gloves and usually-judging eyebrows, laughing and enjoying the penises. Korea, I love you, but you are weird as hell sometimes.
To give some examples that might illustrate;
Seemingly acceptable:
Littering
Vomiting in public/public drunkenness
Men using the ladies room when its more convenient & also smoking in public restrooms
Sleeping during work
Fighting in public
Staring for minutes on end at foreigners/hot girls
Not so cool:
Throwing a cup into the garbage that contains liquid
Love motels
Tank tops/sleeveless shirts
Use of hips while dancing on network TV (often filmed waist-up when the gyrating is too much, Elvis-style)
So, you can imagine our surprise when we read about an entire sculpture park of carved penises. We immediately purchased bus tickets and let me just say, it was probably my 3rd favorite day of the whole trip, after the sand dunes in Mongolia and the Great Wall at Shuiguan. The park lies atop a fishing village overlooking a rough, rocky coastline and angry sea. The grounds are immaculately manicured and the flower beds are botanical garden quality. Small wooded nooks along the paths have dong-shaped love seats made from marble, so you can rest and contemplate the ocean. The meditative rock garden includes a large wooden bench carved into phallus. Even the fences on each side of the path leading to a small shrine are posted by, you guessed it, wee members.
Its hard to picture the same old ladies with blouses buttoned to their chins enjoying this diversion. But there they are; in their visors and gloves and usually-judging eyebrows, laughing and enjoying the penises. Korea, I love you, but you are weird as hell sometimes.
Slacky Blogger
Although normally I have blogarrhea, with so much to say and so little time for 'putering, the last few days I've been taking in a lot more than typing out. After leaving Sokcho, we traveled to Samcheok for some quality time in the penis park (more on that in a moment). The following day, we headed to Gangneung for a morning bus to train layover, then came to Andong where we've been for a few days. Tomorrow we set off again and will be in Gyeongju by mid-afternoon, learning more about the Shilla dynasty than we ever thought possible. Particularly because we didn't know what it was...
I weirdly miss Sokcho and often think about canning the rest of our Korea itinerary and heading straight back there. Hanging our hats for 10 whole days put us in a completely different mindset - toiletries unpacked, favorite restaurants visited twice, a couple of afternoons in the rain reading on the covered porch... Plus, we miss Yoo and his awesome dog.
I learned an interesting lesson staying at that place.... I've always figured that working in a hotel must be awful. People are rude, have asinine expectations, think they should behave like idiots because they're paying for the priveledge, etc. I, too, have been a testy business traveler; late for my flight, annoyed that the express checkout function on the TV didn't work, impatiently extending and retracting the handle on my rolly bag because there is a line at the front desk and I need to GO. Eventually faced with a facially placid and verbally insincere hotel employee who at once apologizes for the delay and then asks whether everything was ok, and, wouldiliketoprovidemyemailforfuturespecials even though CLEARLY I just want to get the eff out of here I, too, have been a not exceptionally polite version of me.
Anyway, everyone who does work in the accommodations biz should take a page from Yoo's book. I challenge even the crustiest road warrior to get angry or impatient with this man. I think the expression "you get more flies with honey" must have been translated from the original Korean. Always smiling, always apologizing even when nothing is wrong, always thanking us for doing nothing. And here, I brought you a ginormous piece of my birthday cake. And here, I got you some beers and bottled water to take to the train station with you. And can I please walk you there?
I'm looking at my creative Tshirt-making friends here.... When I get home and my new aura of benevolence leaves all who look upon me sightless, I'd like a T-shirt made and I'd like it to read: I learned it by watching Yoo.
I weirdly miss Sokcho and often think about canning the rest of our Korea itinerary and heading straight back there. Hanging our hats for 10 whole days put us in a completely different mindset - toiletries unpacked, favorite restaurants visited twice, a couple of afternoons in the rain reading on the covered porch... Plus, we miss Yoo and his awesome dog.
I learned an interesting lesson staying at that place.... I've always figured that working in a hotel must be awful. People are rude, have asinine expectations, think they should behave like idiots because they're paying for the priveledge, etc. I, too, have been a testy business traveler; late for my flight, annoyed that the express checkout function on the TV didn't work, impatiently extending and retracting the handle on my rolly bag because there is a line at the front desk and I need to GO. Eventually faced with a facially placid and verbally insincere hotel employee who at once apologizes for the delay and then asks whether everything was ok, and, wouldiliketoprovidemyemailforfuturespecials even though CLEARLY I just want to get the eff out of here I, too, have been a not exceptionally polite version of me.
Anyway, everyone who does work in the accommodations biz should take a page from Yoo's book. I challenge even the crustiest road warrior to get angry or impatient with this man. I think the expression "you get more flies with honey" must have been translated from the original Korean. Always smiling, always apologizing even when nothing is wrong, always thanking us for doing nothing. And here, I brought you a ginormous piece of my birthday cake. And here, I got you some beers and bottled water to take to the train station with you. And can I please walk you there?
I'm looking at my creative Tshirt-making friends here.... When I get home and my new aura of benevolence leaves all who look upon me sightless, I'd like a T-shirt made and I'd like it to read: I learned it by watching Yoo.
Sunday, August 22, 2010
Yoo's on First
I decided to write this entry after relaying this story to Molly yesterday over Skype because we laughed so hard I nearly choked on my tongue.
We're still in Sokcho and have extended our stay at The House Hostel for 2 more nights because we love it here and also are feeling a teensy bit lazy. The place we're staying is just perfection and so comfortable; we basically feel like locals, in the most touristy way. Its just easy livin' and every day we either go to the beach or to the mountains and who can really winge when that's the hardest decision you have to make on a given morning?
The House Hostel is run by a saintly young gent named Yoo. Its possible that we're setting a record for longest tenancy at his place; Sokcho seems to be more of a long weekend flyover than a 10 night holiday destination. Since we've been here a week and we talk to him a lot, the confusion caused by his name has been nothing short of Vaudevillian.
R: That's the restaurant Yoo told me about.
E: I've never seen that place, when did I tell you about it?
R: No, Yoo.
or
R: Where'd you get the choco pies? [editor's note: Choco pies are like pinwheels on steroids and were discovered and added to my regular diet in Mongolia. When I saw the shiny red foil package in Beijing, written in Mandarin, I shrieked like a Chihuahua and bought 4. Imagine my surprise and unfettered joy at seeing 2 atop the bureau in our room at the hostel.]
E: Yoo gave them to me.
R: I didn't have any.
E: I know, these are both for you.
R: But where did they come from?
E: From Yoo.
Nearly once a day Ed and I miscommunicate about something that Yoo said. No, I didn't. Yoo did. No, I didn't. And on and on. Yesterday, this happened and I responded "oh, so funny Ed," and he was like "No, I'm serious, it wasn't me."
But the chart topper was last night, when a Yoo the proprietor vs. You the pronoun misfire nearly caused a relationship scuffle.
R: Is that a bag of laundry for Yoo?
E: I put both of our stuff in. Its "our laundry," honey.
We're still in Sokcho and have extended our stay at The House Hostel for 2 more nights because we love it here and also are feeling a teensy bit lazy. The place we're staying is just perfection and so comfortable; we basically feel like locals, in the most touristy way. Its just easy livin' and every day we either go to the beach or to the mountains and who can really winge when that's the hardest decision you have to make on a given morning?
The House Hostel is run by a saintly young gent named Yoo. Its possible that we're setting a record for longest tenancy at his place; Sokcho seems to be more of a long weekend flyover than a 10 night holiday destination. Since we've been here a week and we talk to him a lot, the confusion caused by his name has been nothing short of Vaudevillian.
R: That's the restaurant Yoo told me about.
E: I've never seen that place, when did I tell you about it?
R: No, Yoo.
or
R: Where'd you get the choco pies? [editor's note: Choco pies are like pinwheels on steroids and were discovered and added to my regular diet in Mongolia. When I saw the shiny red foil package in Beijing, written in Mandarin, I shrieked like a Chihuahua and bought 4. Imagine my surprise and unfettered joy at seeing 2 atop the bureau in our room at the hostel.]
E: Yoo gave them to me.
R: I didn't have any.
E: I know, these are both for you.
R: But where did they come from?
E: From Yoo.
Nearly once a day Ed and I miscommunicate about something that Yoo said. No, I didn't. Yoo did. No, I didn't. And on and on. Yesterday, this happened and I responded "oh, so funny Ed," and he was like "No, I'm serious, it wasn't me."
But the chart topper was last night, when a Yoo the proprietor vs. You the pronoun misfire nearly caused a relationship scuffle.
R: Is that a bag of laundry for Yoo?
E: I put both of our stuff in. Its "our laundry," honey.
Friday, August 20, 2010
Naksan Beach!
Because I'm neurotic and a recovering perfectionist, I've put us on a strict regimen of beach visits in the region to ensure that we conduct a full double blind study (5 point scale based on size of swimming area, sand, water temperature and cleanliness, proximity to delicious snacks, jackedness of lifeguards - not because of attraction but sheer awe at the lack of bodyfat - and commutability) so that we can visit that one the most.
We've been to 4 beaches and today was by far the supremest - Naksan Beach has the right mix of solitude but with enough people to scare off the jellyfish and distract the lifeguards so I can swim past the barrier into deeper water.
Today, unfortch, I was a bit cavalier with the application of sunscreen on my lower half. The sunburn on my assal region combined with the unreal muscle soreness from yesterday's grueling death march has me staggering and cursing my way up the stairs of our hostel like a drunken 90 year old sailor.
The beach was amazing, though, and I can't wait to lay on it again. Ed is threatening to make me wear his pajama pants if we go back tomorrow to ensure I don't inflict any further damage to my trunk. I'm weighing these options.
We've been to 4 beaches and today was by far the supremest - Naksan Beach has the right mix of solitude but with enough people to scare off the jellyfish and distract the lifeguards so I can swim past the barrier into deeper water.
Today, unfortch, I was a bit cavalier with the application of sunscreen on my lower half. The sunburn on my assal region combined with the unreal muscle soreness from yesterday's grueling death march has me staggering and cursing my way up the stairs of our hostel like a drunken 90 year old sailor.
The beach was amazing, though, and I can't wait to lay on it again. Ed is threatening to make me wear his pajama pants if we go back tomorrow to ensure I don't inflict any further damage to my trunk. I'm weighing these options.
Thursday, August 19, 2010
Ulsanbawi Rock in Sokcho
Today we did one of the hardest hikes I've ever been on. Ever. The hike up to Ulsanbawi rock in Seoraksan national park is only about 3 km (Burgie knows conversions?) and the first half is really lulls you into thinking this is no bigs. There are temples and restaurants nestled along the trail. Lady cooks are churning out bibimbap and noodles with red pepper paste, the latter of which, as an aside, is my favorite Korean dish and which I've eaten no less than 7 times since entering this country AND which I ask Ed after every bowl if he thinks he will be able to replicate in America because oh my god if I can't have it anymore we're moving to Korea for good. People look moderately fatigued and are drinking Soju (why not?) at picnic tables and you finish the first half and think, I do not know what all the hoopla is about, that was easy peasy lemon squeezy (2 points, England). We can probably bang this thing out and have time for another hike this afternoon.
And then you get to a temple that was built in a cave in 652 - can you believe that people were building temples in caves in 652? - doesn't that just seem like infinitely so long ago that it can hardly be possible? And there is a guy selling soft serve and camp kids throwing ice at each other and then you see a tiny wooden sign that reads "Ulsabawi Rock, 1km." What the sign should say is "you are so screwed" or, better yet, "it'd be in your best interest to turn back here" because from there you basically climb steep metal stairs which change to steeper metal ladders along sheer rock face for 1 straight kilometer.
Unfortunately, today the fog got so bad that by the time we summited the big rock we didn't have any view. That said, we were so excited to be at the top and sitting down, we barely cared.
Here's a picture from the Korea tourism website, our own sweaty shots coming soon:
And then you get to a temple that was built in a cave in 652 - can you believe that people were building temples in caves in 652? - doesn't that just seem like infinitely so long ago that it can hardly be possible? And there is a guy selling soft serve and camp kids throwing ice at each other and then you see a tiny wooden sign that reads "Ulsabawi Rock, 1km." What the sign should say is "you are so screwed" or, better yet, "it'd be in your best interest to turn back here" because from there you basically climb steep metal stairs which change to steeper metal ladders along sheer rock face for 1 straight kilometer.
Unfortunately, today the fog got so bad that by the time we summited the big rock we didn't have any view. That said, we were so excited to be at the top and sitting down, we barely cared.
Here's a picture from the Korea tourism website, our own sweaty shots coming soon:
Tuesday, August 17, 2010
Sokcho, South Korea
We're in Sokcho, which is a beachy fishing town on the east coast of S. Korea, real close to the 38th parallel. This is a popular tourist destination for Koreans and Japanese beach goers and also a good launch pad for visiting the DMZ, which we're probably not going to do because there are, like, 10 amazing beaches within a bus ride and the area is known primarily for raw fish. So, educational day trips are just going to have to take a back seat for the moment.
Today was a gorgeous and perfectly sunny day for our first visit to Sokcho beach. The Koreans could learn us a few things about beach going. For example:
- Rather than umbrellas, you rent a big metal and canvass wall that bends in the middle and is propped up by a metal pole. This provides a huge rectangle of shade and never blows away. Best.
- Favored Korean beach snack: hot dog on a stick covered in French Fries. I had been looking forward to this since we got off the bus on Sunday (I pretty much talked about it all the way from Seoul) and it did not disappoint. I guess, really, how could it? Its a hot dog. And french fries. On a stick.
- People do NOT end their beach day at 5 p.m. to go home and shower and nap before cocktails and this I particularly enjoy. Why? Because being at the beach is my favorite thing on earth and I would stay there till dark if given the option. I feel vindicated when, at 6:30, my Korean brethren are just settling in with a bucket of chicken (not kidding) and big beers. They're probably still there now. Stay strong, guys.
Um, so onto a couple of really minor points of feedback that I'd probably share for the overall improvement of the beach experience for the local visitors.
- Science has given us a miraculous lotion that effectively combats UV rays. Its called sunscreen and can be purchased at the Family Mart across the street from here. So while I appreciate that modesty dictates y'all aren't going to be wearing thongs and banana hammocks, jeans with hoodies aren't really appropriate swimwear. We saw dozens of people in long pants or sleeves or both, with hats or hoods or both, in the Pacific today. Maybe just SPF it up and leave the socks (true story) on shore.
- I realize that a lot of folks around here aren't terribly comfortable in the water. And, while an inflatable tube/raft/swimmy is a sensible precaution, I feel you guys might be overdoing it. The roped off swim area at the beach ensures that if you are over 4 ft. 6, you can touch the bottom with your entire head above water even at the highest of tides. The life vest in concert with a flotation device and a loud shriek every time a 6 inch wave rolls in just feels campy. Maybe reign it in a drop.
Otherwise good times. And really enjoyed the lack of open container laws.
See you tomorrow.
Today was a gorgeous and perfectly sunny day for our first visit to Sokcho beach. The Koreans could learn us a few things about beach going. For example:
- Rather than umbrellas, you rent a big metal and canvass wall that bends in the middle and is propped up by a metal pole. This provides a huge rectangle of shade and never blows away. Best.
- Favored Korean beach snack: hot dog on a stick covered in French Fries. I had been looking forward to this since we got off the bus on Sunday (I pretty much talked about it all the way from Seoul) and it did not disappoint. I guess, really, how could it? Its a hot dog. And french fries. On a stick.
- People do NOT end their beach day at 5 p.m. to go home and shower and nap before cocktails and this I particularly enjoy. Why? Because being at the beach is my favorite thing on earth and I would stay there till dark if given the option. I feel vindicated when, at 6:30, my Korean brethren are just settling in with a bucket of chicken (not kidding) and big beers. They're probably still there now. Stay strong, guys.
Um, so onto a couple of really minor points of feedback that I'd probably share for the overall improvement of the beach experience for the local visitors.
- Science has given us a miraculous lotion that effectively combats UV rays. Its called sunscreen and can be purchased at the Family Mart across the street from here. So while I appreciate that modesty dictates y'all aren't going to be wearing thongs and banana hammocks, jeans with hoodies aren't really appropriate swimwear. We saw dozens of people in long pants or sleeves or both, with hats or hoods or both, in the Pacific today. Maybe just SPF it up and leave the socks (true story) on shore.
- I realize that a lot of folks around here aren't terribly comfortable in the water. And, while an inflatable tube/raft/swimmy is a sensible precaution, I feel you guys might be overdoing it. The roped off swim area at the beach ensures that if you are over 4 ft. 6, you can touch the bottom with your entire head above water even at the highest of tides. The life vest in concert with a flotation device and a loud shriek every time a 6 inch wave rolls in just feels campy. Maybe reign it in a drop.
Otherwise good times. And really enjoyed the lack of open container laws.
See you tomorrow.
Thursday, August 12, 2010
Seoul, Korea
We've just begun Day 4 in Seoul and I have to say, this is one of the easiest places to navigate that I've ever been. Seoul is spotlessly clean and well organized. The subway is intuitive, quick, and there is usually a map within view before you can say "where are we?" There isn't a massive amount of culture to get into, but as cities go, it kind of couldn't be more pleasant for hanging.
Our first day we wandered around the Insadong neighborhood, which isn't far from our motel. Its kind of half arty/half touristy, but still architecturally lovely and windy and oldish. Tons of galleries and little restaurants. That day we also hit Jongmyo temple and the Buddhist supply street. There is something unnerving & funny about seeing where the monks get their gear on. Its literally an entire street selling traditional garb, candles, beads, incense, finger sybols, really anything you could need for temple life. Watching the monks comparison shop for giant tassles just isn't something you see everyday.
Day 2 was an epic walk that included Namsan Park and the N Seoul Tower (pictures coming!) It was a perfect clear day, but epically hot. I'm not sure if we sweated more in the park or at the Great Wall but there seems, occassionally, to be a perfect storm of humidity, heat and direct sunlight that makes us sweat an abnormal amount. Glamorous, yes? Annoyingly, the locals endure the climate sans-perspiration. So when we arrive, panting, at the top of the mountain we look like we've been swimming. Doesn't really help us to blend... We wandered through the Naemdaemun Market, which is approximately the size of the town I grew up in, and ate the most delicious Korean BBQ I've ever had at a neighborhood joint that night.
Yesterday, Ed was reunited with the second great love of his life, Mister Donut. This is a Japanese chain that I'm sure many of you have heard him expound on. We feel the MD product in Korea might be slightly chewier than the Tokyo branch(es), but no less uniquely addicting. I once explained to Ed how eating more than 1 Krispy Kreme donut made me feel sick. But that when that happened, my brain would rationalize that the only cure was another donut. I can't remember where I was going with this. But now I want a donut.
After MD, we went to the Hongdae neighborhood, which was where I had wanted us to stay in Seoul. Hongdae University is there and its all windy alleys of boutiques, bars, restaurants, and multi-story buildings with Hof at the top and Clubs in the basement (business up front, party in the back). We got tickets for a B-boy show, walked the streets all afternoon and had a few lunches. The Seoul Fringe Festival was supposed to be kicking off right where we were, but it was pissing down and they must have started at least a couple of hours late, so we missed the OC.
BUT, the show was amazing. Its about 25 Korean kids that pop n' lock, freestyle, and breakdance in a tiny black box theater. It probably goes without saying that the anti-gravity shit these kids perform (how does his neck support his whole body for that long?) is jaw dropping. The audience was mostly youngish Korean girls, a pretty reserved bunch. The contrast of the dancers blowing it out to ear splitting music within 10 feet of a stock-still, politely clapping audience was odd. I did my part both in showing appreciation and embarrassing Ed with my seat-dancing. Woot!
After the show, we went to one of the seven thousand restaurants in the area for Chinese-ish Korean food. And Soju. The Soju here is way stronger and vodka-ier than in Japan. The hard drinking people of Seoul suck it down like water in the desert. We had 1 small bottle and 2 beers and I sang old Elton John songs all the way home (I rediscovered the Rare Masters collection in Mongolia. Current fave: Lady Samantha). Its 11:30 am here and Ed is still sleeping. Powerful stuff.
Now, about those donuts.
Our first day we wandered around the Insadong neighborhood, which isn't far from our motel. Its kind of half arty/half touristy, but still architecturally lovely and windy and oldish. Tons of galleries and little restaurants. That day we also hit Jongmyo temple and the Buddhist supply street. There is something unnerving & funny about seeing where the monks get their gear on. Its literally an entire street selling traditional garb, candles, beads, incense, finger sybols, really anything you could need for temple life. Watching the monks comparison shop for giant tassles just isn't something you see everyday.
Day 2 was an epic walk that included Namsan Park and the N Seoul Tower (pictures coming!) It was a perfect clear day, but epically hot. I'm not sure if we sweated more in the park or at the Great Wall but there seems, occassionally, to be a perfect storm of humidity, heat and direct sunlight that makes us sweat an abnormal amount. Glamorous, yes? Annoyingly, the locals endure the climate sans-perspiration. So when we arrive, panting, at the top of the mountain we look like we've been swimming. Doesn't really help us to blend... We wandered through the Naemdaemun Market, which is approximately the size of the town I grew up in, and ate the most delicious Korean BBQ I've ever had at a neighborhood joint that night.
Yesterday, Ed was reunited with the second great love of his life, Mister Donut. This is a Japanese chain that I'm sure many of you have heard him expound on. We feel the MD product in Korea might be slightly chewier than the Tokyo branch(es), but no less uniquely addicting. I once explained to Ed how eating more than 1 Krispy Kreme donut made me feel sick. But that when that happened, my brain would rationalize that the only cure was another donut. I can't remember where I was going with this. But now I want a donut.
After MD, we went to the Hongdae neighborhood, which was where I had wanted us to stay in Seoul. Hongdae University is there and its all windy alleys of boutiques, bars, restaurants, and multi-story buildings with Hof at the top and Clubs in the basement (business up front, party in the back). We got tickets for a B-boy show, walked the streets all afternoon and had a few lunches. The Seoul Fringe Festival was supposed to be kicking off right where we were, but it was pissing down and they must have started at least a couple of hours late, so we missed the OC.
BUT, the show was amazing. Its about 25 Korean kids that pop n' lock, freestyle, and breakdance in a tiny black box theater. It probably goes without saying that the anti-gravity shit these kids perform (how does his neck support his whole body for that long?) is jaw dropping. The audience was mostly youngish Korean girls, a pretty reserved bunch. The contrast of the dancers blowing it out to ear splitting music within 10 feet of a stock-still, politely clapping audience was odd. I did my part both in showing appreciation and embarrassing Ed with my seat-dancing. Woot!
After the show, we went to one of the seven thousand restaurants in the area for Chinese-ish Korean food. And Soju. The Soju here is way stronger and vodka-ier than in Japan. The hard drinking people of Seoul suck it down like water in the desert. We had 1 small bottle and 2 beers and I sang old Elton John songs all the way home (I rediscovered the Rare Masters collection in Mongolia. Current fave: Lady Samantha). Its 11:30 am here and Ed is still sleeping. Powerful stuff.
Now, about those donuts.
Monday, August 9, 2010
Everybody's got Seoul, Seoul, Seoul
Hey people, we're in Korea! The Southern one, where they welcome the outsiders. I just had a chance to look through the blog and my heart positively swelled reading your comments. Which I haven't seen since Mongolia. Which was a while back. Oh, yeesh, but sorry about the formatting sitch. I had no idea what an assualt my words were on your eyes during the e-mail to blogger black out. Now that we're back in the free-wheelin' democracy (stayin' in a love motel, no less) I'll try to purdy it up for you.
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