Saturday, December 11, 2010

SE Asia hearts vintage

There are a million differences between the developing world and home.  I've been thinking a lot about the small frustrations that we've grumbled over in Vietnam and why the locals don't even notice these myriad irritations.  But more on that later.  One key difference that's obvious is that here goods are maintained; at home we replace.

This can be highly frustrating.  Arguing with a worker in Mongolia who insisted on patching a tube in the tire of my bicycle for the 97th time rather than simply replacing was rage inspiring (I offered to pay him for the new tube).  The number of cracked glasses we've been served, even in swank joints, is surprising.  People hang on to their shit until its absolutely beyond repair.  Often this is financial necessity, equally often its stubborn habit.

Sometimes, though, this behavior allows for preservation of old treasures.  And I mean preservation, not restoration.  Even as the pool tiles turn to dust at the Atlanta, the staff continues to skim the top, bleach the deck, and chlorinate the water.  The idea of re-tiling probably hasn't crossed their minds.  And the Unification Palace (aka the Reunification Palace, Independence Palace, and The Palace) in Saigon practically feels haunted.  

The Atlanta:


Both of these places look magical from afar, like stepping back in time.  Up close the wear and tear peeks through in faded upholstery and 50 year old uncleanable dirt.  They're like Demi Moore that way.  Did you see "The Joneses?"  Because I did, and I expect she's filed a civil suit against that DP.  Some rough angles in that flick...

Ed and I likely set a record for time spent in the palace and gathered some hot decorating tips (no joke) while we wondered.  Its considered the site of the end of the Vietnam War, the famous lawn the VC rolled their tanks onto.  The basement is a maze of communication rooms used to plan and execute war.  It was beyond creepy down there, and we loved every second.  Its basically Communist Graceland, minus the music.

The Unification Palace:

1 comment:

JSaw said...

If you guys get to Burma, you'll see the flip side of this where the "restoration" seems to mean painting everything some nightmare garish color to attract the Westerners who apparently cannot be accosted by anything looking like it wasn't made of neon!

Remind me if you get a chance to go... my cousin actually does tours of Rangoon in SPANISH...