Sometimes traveling makes you feel like a baller. It is, on occasion, a tiny whiff of what I imagine it feels like to be famous. Particularly in the smaller and less tourist-traffic'd cities and towns we've been to, some locals are pretty amped to see us. Strangers ask us to pose for photos with their families, shop owners ask us to try things on, chefs send us extra stuff, managers of hotels thank us (sincerely) for visiting their city, random old men shake our hands and shout at us in Korean. This last one, the whole "these people will understand my language if I speak it loudly enough" is apparently a global phenomenon. I thought it was just us worldly Americans who did this....
Other times, traveling makes you feel like a hobo. A couple of days ago in Andong, we went to visit the Icheon Dong Buddha which is real famous around those parts. The mosquitos were so bad we couldn't walk without windmilling our arms to keep them from covering our faces. Fortunately, they were scared off by a pounding thunderstorm that brought lightning and torrential rain. This drove us into a bus station covered in spiderwebs where we were treated to a viewing of a shot-glass sized spider catching a moth in its web, mummifying it, and draining it of blood. Then we waited 1.5 hours for the bus.
Last night we were wondering around Gyeongju's downtown and I saw, glowing, from across the street a shop so fabulous & so quintessentially Rodney, that I had to go in and touch each of the garments. That store was called "Thursday Island," and I didn't buy a thing. Because while there are swank moments when I wish I weren't wearing technical fabrics, the reality is that I ended the evening doing our laundry in the sink at our love motel. Which isn't very Thursday Island at all.
Tuesday, August 31, 2010
Sunday, August 29, 2010
Penis Park Penis Park Penis Park
Korea can be a hard place to understand sometimes. There is a prevailing conservatism that doesn't necessarily jive with what you see going on around you. Its hard to pinpoint and verbalize the notion, but often we feel like we're being watched (we are) and someone is waiting for us to commit a major social taboo (we try not to; we don't really care).
To give some examples that might illustrate;
Seemingly acceptable:
Littering
Vomiting in public/public drunkenness
Men using the ladies room when its more convenient & also smoking in public restrooms
Sleeping during work
Fighting in public
Staring for minutes on end at foreigners/hot girls
Not so cool:
Throwing a cup into the garbage that contains liquid
Love motels
Tank tops/sleeveless shirts
Use of hips while dancing on network TV (often filmed waist-up when the gyrating is too much, Elvis-style)
So, you can imagine our surprise when we read about an entire sculpture park of carved penises. We immediately purchased bus tickets and let me just say, it was probably my 3rd favorite day of the whole trip, after the sand dunes in Mongolia and the Great Wall at Shuiguan. The park lies atop a fishing village overlooking a rough, rocky coastline and angry sea. The grounds are immaculately manicured and the flower beds are botanical garden quality. Small wooded nooks along the paths have dong-shaped love seats made from marble, so you can rest and contemplate the ocean. The meditative rock garden includes a large wooden bench carved into phallus. Even the fences on each side of the path leading to a small shrine are posted by, you guessed it, wee members.
Its hard to picture the same old ladies with blouses buttoned to their chins enjoying this diversion. But there they are; in their visors and gloves and usually-judging eyebrows, laughing and enjoying the penises. Korea, I love you, but you are weird as hell sometimes.
To give some examples that might illustrate;
Seemingly acceptable:
Littering
Vomiting in public/public drunkenness
Men using the ladies room when its more convenient & also smoking in public restrooms
Sleeping during work
Fighting in public
Staring for minutes on end at foreigners/hot girls
Not so cool:
Throwing a cup into the garbage that contains liquid
Love motels
Tank tops/sleeveless shirts
Use of hips while dancing on network TV (often filmed waist-up when the gyrating is too much, Elvis-style)
So, you can imagine our surprise when we read about an entire sculpture park of carved penises. We immediately purchased bus tickets and let me just say, it was probably my 3rd favorite day of the whole trip, after the sand dunes in Mongolia and the Great Wall at Shuiguan. The park lies atop a fishing village overlooking a rough, rocky coastline and angry sea. The grounds are immaculately manicured and the flower beds are botanical garden quality. Small wooded nooks along the paths have dong-shaped love seats made from marble, so you can rest and contemplate the ocean. The meditative rock garden includes a large wooden bench carved into phallus. Even the fences on each side of the path leading to a small shrine are posted by, you guessed it, wee members.
Its hard to picture the same old ladies with blouses buttoned to their chins enjoying this diversion. But there they are; in their visors and gloves and usually-judging eyebrows, laughing and enjoying the penises. Korea, I love you, but you are weird as hell sometimes.
Slacky Blogger
Although normally I have blogarrhea, with so much to say and so little time for 'putering, the last few days I've been taking in a lot more than typing out. After leaving Sokcho, we traveled to Samcheok for some quality time in the penis park (more on that in a moment). The following day, we headed to Gangneung for a morning bus to train layover, then came to Andong where we've been for a few days. Tomorrow we set off again and will be in Gyeongju by mid-afternoon, learning more about the Shilla dynasty than we ever thought possible. Particularly because we didn't know what it was...
I weirdly miss Sokcho and often think about canning the rest of our Korea itinerary and heading straight back there. Hanging our hats for 10 whole days put us in a completely different mindset - toiletries unpacked, favorite restaurants visited twice, a couple of afternoons in the rain reading on the covered porch... Plus, we miss Yoo and his awesome dog.
I learned an interesting lesson staying at that place.... I've always figured that working in a hotel must be awful. People are rude, have asinine expectations, think they should behave like idiots because they're paying for the priveledge, etc. I, too, have been a testy business traveler; late for my flight, annoyed that the express checkout function on the TV didn't work, impatiently extending and retracting the handle on my rolly bag because there is a line at the front desk and I need to GO. Eventually faced with a facially placid and verbally insincere hotel employee who at once apologizes for the delay and then asks whether everything was ok, and, wouldiliketoprovidemyemailforfuturespecials even though CLEARLY I just want to get the eff out of here I, too, have been a not exceptionally polite version of me.
Anyway, everyone who does work in the accommodations biz should take a page from Yoo's book. I challenge even the crustiest road warrior to get angry or impatient with this man. I think the expression "you get more flies with honey" must have been translated from the original Korean. Always smiling, always apologizing even when nothing is wrong, always thanking us for doing nothing. And here, I brought you a ginormous piece of my birthday cake. And here, I got you some beers and bottled water to take to the train station with you. And can I please walk you there?
I'm looking at my creative Tshirt-making friends here.... When I get home and my new aura of benevolence leaves all who look upon me sightless, I'd like a T-shirt made and I'd like it to read: I learned it by watching Yoo.
I weirdly miss Sokcho and often think about canning the rest of our Korea itinerary and heading straight back there. Hanging our hats for 10 whole days put us in a completely different mindset - toiletries unpacked, favorite restaurants visited twice, a couple of afternoons in the rain reading on the covered porch... Plus, we miss Yoo and his awesome dog.
I learned an interesting lesson staying at that place.... I've always figured that working in a hotel must be awful. People are rude, have asinine expectations, think they should behave like idiots because they're paying for the priveledge, etc. I, too, have been a testy business traveler; late for my flight, annoyed that the express checkout function on the TV didn't work, impatiently extending and retracting the handle on my rolly bag because there is a line at the front desk and I need to GO. Eventually faced with a facially placid and verbally insincere hotel employee who at once apologizes for the delay and then asks whether everything was ok, and, wouldiliketoprovidemyemailforfuturespecials even though CLEARLY I just want to get the eff out of here I, too, have been a not exceptionally polite version of me.
Anyway, everyone who does work in the accommodations biz should take a page from Yoo's book. I challenge even the crustiest road warrior to get angry or impatient with this man. I think the expression "you get more flies with honey" must have been translated from the original Korean. Always smiling, always apologizing even when nothing is wrong, always thanking us for doing nothing. And here, I brought you a ginormous piece of my birthday cake. And here, I got you some beers and bottled water to take to the train station with you. And can I please walk you there?
I'm looking at my creative Tshirt-making friends here.... When I get home and my new aura of benevolence leaves all who look upon me sightless, I'd like a T-shirt made and I'd like it to read: I learned it by watching Yoo.
Tuesday, August 24, 2010
From the Mongolian archive...
You guys! I've been wanting to post this since Mongolia, but between the blackout in China, the boxed up desktop in Seoul, and the slow download speeds over wifi, I didn't have a chance.... Till now....
The last ger camp we stayed at in Mongolia was in Hustai National Park, where there are tiny fancy wild horses wandering the hills. At 5 p.m., in the rec room ger, there was a performance. Of a self-described Mongolian "boy band." Ed refused to go, but I was there at 4:59 in a good seat away from Undraa and Asshead so I could freely giggle and film the proceedings.
Needless to say, this isn't what I was expecting. In this video, the band is performing one of their hits about Ghengis Khan. Its called "Ghengis Khan." In case you can't tell from my shotty camera-work, these guys take themselves pretty seriously.
Incidentally, the band was on our flight from UB to Beijing with the same hair do's. But their traveling clothes are T-shirts bearing the band's name. If its a sin to wear the band's t-shirt to their concert, what sphere of nerdiness does wearing the band's t-shirt to the airport when you're a member put you in?
The best part is the last 10 seconds when the throat singer off camera sounds like he is at once harmonizing and trying to bring up a chicken bone.
Some stuff I've learned about travel.
Being away from home for an extended time with no real schedule or end date or solid future plan can be daunting. Total self-direction is something that I haven't experienced before, what with the working and the regular-life obligations. When responsibility comes in the context of a purely selfish pursuit, it can be heavy. Every day I balance worry that I will squander this opportunity by not doing enough or the right enough with annoyance that I can't just chill out for once and enjoy my time off the grid. Its a high-class problem to have, but a tightrope still, my friends.
All that is to say that in the 7 weeks since we left the States, I've come to a few conclusions that are shaping my approach to travel and maybe will help other people headed off the reservation. So, I thought I'd share.
- Stay in nice places. I've never cared much about the accommodations on vacation because I'm not one to spend much time in the room. The difference now is that the where we stay is home while we're there. This isn't a quick jaunt from our permanent residence, this is our life. And besides being the place we sleep, its where we do research, make travel plans, Skype with friends and family, and conduct life business. So its needs to be better than just inhabitable. Nice vibes, please.
- Stay in hostels, even if you don't have dreadlocks and a backpack. I think most Americans picture dorm-style flea factories but, infact, a lot of hostels are uber-charming and feel more like B&Bs than freshman bunks. Most have a common area and/or kitchen, which gives you a spot to hang besides your room and a chance to mix it up with other people. When we have stayed in hotels we haven't talked to a soul. Socializing, even for an hour after dinner, with strangers is like an injection of new material into the routine. We flex our social muscles and remember our couple-y A-game. Also, we occasionally have something to mock when we retire for the evening.
- Figure out how much fun is enough fun. The amount of stuff we pack into a day varies hugely. Some mornings, we're breakfasted and traveled to our first destination by 10 and return long after dark. Other days, after 5 or 6 hours of sightseeing, I want to go to the room and stare at the ceiling. Being in unfamiliar surroundings, not speaking or reading the language, not knowing where we are, how we'll get to the next place, or even what the next place is, can be tiring. I think the brain can only take in a certain amount of newness a day. After that, let it rest. Sponge full.
- Research is helpful, but it can become a Sisyphean task. I mean, thank God for the internet. At the same time, there is so much information and so many strong opinions, I've found myself in decision paralysis more than once. The world is our oyster, yes, but its a big-ass shell and I'm bad at geography. Sometimes just picking the next destination based on weather, affordability, cool accommodations and 1 thing we want to see or do is enough. Like the place we're headed tomorrow with the penis-sculpture park. Good times!
- Also on the research front, I've sort of crossed over from pulling together lists of restaurants, bars, galleries, etc., to just getting a basic understanding of which neighborhoods to check out, and a map. The contributing writer for the Lonely Planet doesn't have better taste in boutiques or bars than I do, so I mostly wing it. We find it more satisfying to make great discoveries ourselves than to spend much time circling the address of a place recommended. Because, frankly, there's only a 50% chance that its better than the one we would've picked just walking by.
- And in terms of food/restaurant discoveries? Our system is pretty much to hang out in non-touristy neighborhoods and eat in crowded restaurants. In Beijing, in particular, this strategy did not fail. Most of those joints had Chinese-only menus, so we just pointed at what other people were eating and had some of the best meals of our lives.
I think that was the most serious post I've written since we boarded the plane for Mongolia. Gravitas exhausted. Seacrest out.
All that is to say that in the 7 weeks since we left the States, I've come to a few conclusions that are shaping my approach to travel and maybe will help other people headed off the reservation. So, I thought I'd share.
- Stay in nice places. I've never cared much about the accommodations on vacation because I'm not one to spend much time in the room. The difference now is that the where we stay is home while we're there. This isn't a quick jaunt from our permanent residence, this is our life. And besides being the place we sleep, its where we do research, make travel plans, Skype with friends and family, and conduct life business. So its needs to be better than just inhabitable. Nice vibes, please.
- Stay in hostels, even if you don't have dreadlocks and a backpack. I think most Americans picture dorm-style flea factories but, infact, a lot of hostels are uber-charming and feel more like B&Bs than freshman bunks. Most have a common area and/or kitchen, which gives you a spot to hang besides your room and a chance to mix it up with other people. When we have stayed in hotels we haven't talked to a soul. Socializing, even for an hour after dinner, with strangers is like an injection of new material into the routine. We flex our social muscles and remember our couple-y A-game. Also, we occasionally have something to mock when we retire for the evening.
- Figure out how much fun is enough fun. The amount of stuff we pack into a day varies hugely. Some mornings, we're breakfasted and traveled to our first destination by 10 and return long after dark. Other days, after 5 or 6 hours of sightseeing, I want to go to the room and stare at the ceiling. Being in unfamiliar surroundings, not speaking or reading the language, not knowing where we are, how we'll get to the next place, or even what the next place is, can be tiring. I think the brain can only take in a certain amount of newness a day. After that, let it rest. Sponge full.
- Research is helpful, but it can become a Sisyphean task. I mean, thank God for the internet. At the same time, there is so much information and so many strong opinions, I've found myself in decision paralysis more than once. The world is our oyster, yes, but its a big-ass shell and I'm bad at geography. Sometimes just picking the next destination based on weather, affordability, cool accommodations and 1 thing we want to see or do is enough. Like the place we're headed tomorrow with the penis-sculpture park. Good times!
- Also on the research front, I've sort of crossed over from pulling together lists of restaurants, bars, galleries, etc., to just getting a basic understanding of which neighborhoods to check out, and a map. The contributing writer for the Lonely Planet doesn't have better taste in boutiques or bars than I do, so I mostly wing it. We find it more satisfying to make great discoveries ourselves than to spend much time circling the address of a place recommended. Because, frankly, there's only a 50% chance that its better than the one we would've picked just walking by.
- And in terms of food/restaurant discoveries? Our system is pretty much to hang out in non-touristy neighborhoods and eat in crowded restaurants. In Beijing, in particular, this strategy did not fail. Most of those joints had Chinese-only menus, so we just pointed at what other people were eating and had some of the best meals of our lives.
I think that was the most serious post I've written since we boarded the plane for Mongolia. Gravitas exhausted. Seacrest out.
Sunday, August 22, 2010
Yoo's on First
I decided to write this entry after relaying this story to Molly yesterday over Skype because we laughed so hard I nearly choked on my tongue.
We're still in Sokcho and have extended our stay at The House Hostel for 2 more nights because we love it here and also are feeling a teensy bit lazy. The place we're staying is just perfection and so comfortable; we basically feel like locals, in the most touristy way. Its just easy livin' and every day we either go to the beach or to the mountains and who can really winge when that's the hardest decision you have to make on a given morning?
The House Hostel is run by a saintly young gent named Yoo. Its possible that we're setting a record for longest tenancy at his place; Sokcho seems to be more of a long weekend flyover than a 10 night holiday destination. Since we've been here a week and we talk to him a lot, the confusion caused by his name has been nothing short of Vaudevillian.
R: That's the restaurant Yoo told me about.
E: I've never seen that place, when did I tell you about it?
R: No, Yoo.
or
R: Where'd you get the choco pies? [editor's note: Choco pies are like pinwheels on steroids and were discovered and added to my regular diet in Mongolia. When I saw the shiny red foil package in Beijing, written in Mandarin, I shrieked like a Chihuahua and bought 4. Imagine my surprise and unfettered joy at seeing 2 atop the bureau in our room at the hostel.]
E: Yoo gave them to me.
R: I didn't have any.
E: I know, these are both for you.
R: But where did they come from?
E: From Yoo.
Nearly once a day Ed and I miscommunicate about something that Yoo said. No, I didn't. Yoo did. No, I didn't. And on and on. Yesterday, this happened and I responded "oh, so funny Ed," and he was like "No, I'm serious, it wasn't me."
But the chart topper was last night, when a Yoo the proprietor vs. You the pronoun misfire nearly caused a relationship scuffle.
R: Is that a bag of laundry for Yoo?
E: I put both of our stuff in. Its "our laundry," honey.
We're still in Sokcho and have extended our stay at The House Hostel for 2 more nights because we love it here and also are feeling a teensy bit lazy. The place we're staying is just perfection and so comfortable; we basically feel like locals, in the most touristy way. Its just easy livin' and every day we either go to the beach or to the mountains and who can really winge when that's the hardest decision you have to make on a given morning?
The House Hostel is run by a saintly young gent named Yoo. Its possible that we're setting a record for longest tenancy at his place; Sokcho seems to be more of a long weekend flyover than a 10 night holiday destination. Since we've been here a week and we talk to him a lot, the confusion caused by his name has been nothing short of Vaudevillian.
R: That's the restaurant Yoo told me about.
E: I've never seen that place, when did I tell you about it?
R: No, Yoo.
or
R: Where'd you get the choco pies? [editor's note: Choco pies are like pinwheels on steroids and were discovered and added to my regular diet in Mongolia. When I saw the shiny red foil package in Beijing, written in Mandarin, I shrieked like a Chihuahua and bought 4. Imagine my surprise and unfettered joy at seeing 2 atop the bureau in our room at the hostel.]
E: Yoo gave them to me.
R: I didn't have any.
E: I know, these are both for you.
R: But where did they come from?
E: From Yoo.
Nearly once a day Ed and I miscommunicate about something that Yoo said. No, I didn't. Yoo did. No, I didn't. And on and on. Yesterday, this happened and I responded "oh, so funny Ed," and he was like "No, I'm serious, it wasn't me."
But the chart topper was last night, when a Yoo the proprietor vs. You the pronoun misfire nearly caused a relationship scuffle.
R: Is that a bag of laundry for Yoo?
E: I put both of our stuff in. Its "our laundry," honey.
Friday, August 20, 2010
Naksan Beach!
Because I'm neurotic and a recovering perfectionist, I've put us on a strict regimen of beach visits in the region to ensure that we conduct a full double blind study (5 point scale based on size of swimming area, sand, water temperature and cleanliness, proximity to delicious snacks, jackedness of lifeguards - not because of attraction but sheer awe at the lack of bodyfat - and commutability) so that we can visit that one the most.
We've been to 4 beaches and today was by far the supremest - Naksan Beach has the right mix of solitude but with enough people to scare off the jellyfish and distract the lifeguards so I can swim past the barrier into deeper water.
Today, unfortch, I was a bit cavalier with the application of sunscreen on my lower half. The sunburn on my assal region combined with the unreal muscle soreness from yesterday's grueling death march has me staggering and cursing my way up the stairs of our hostel like a drunken 90 year old sailor.
The beach was amazing, though, and I can't wait to lay on it again. Ed is threatening to make me wear his pajama pants if we go back tomorrow to ensure I don't inflict any further damage to my trunk. I'm weighing these options.
We've been to 4 beaches and today was by far the supremest - Naksan Beach has the right mix of solitude but with enough people to scare off the jellyfish and distract the lifeguards so I can swim past the barrier into deeper water.
Today, unfortch, I was a bit cavalier with the application of sunscreen on my lower half. The sunburn on my assal region combined with the unreal muscle soreness from yesterday's grueling death march has me staggering and cursing my way up the stairs of our hostel like a drunken 90 year old sailor.
The beach was amazing, though, and I can't wait to lay on it again. Ed is threatening to make me wear his pajama pants if we go back tomorrow to ensure I don't inflict any further damage to my trunk. I'm weighing these options.
Thursday, August 19, 2010
Ulsanbawi Rock in Sokcho
Today we did one of the hardest hikes I've ever been on. Ever. The hike up to Ulsanbawi rock in Seoraksan national park is only about 3 km (Burgie knows conversions?) and the first half is really lulls you into thinking this is no bigs. There are temples and restaurants nestled along the trail. Lady cooks are churning out bibimbap and noodles with red pepper paste, the latter of which, as an aside, is my favorite Korean dish and which I've eaten no less than 7 times since entering this country AND which I ask Ed after every bowl if he thinks he will be able to replicate in America because oh my god if I can't have it anymore we're moving to Korea for good. People look moderately fatigued and are drinking Soju (why not?) at picnic tables and you finish the first half and think, I do not know what all the hoopla is about, that was easy peasy lemon squeezy (2 points, England). We can probably bang this thing out and have time for another hike this afternoon.
And then you get to a temple that was built in a cave in 652 - can you believe that people were building temples in caves in 652? - doesn't that just seem like infinitely so long ago that it can hardly be possible? And there is a guy selling soft serve and camp kids throwing ice at each other and then you see a tiny wooden sign that reads "Ulsabawi Rock, 1km." What the sign should say is "you are so screwed" or, better yet, "it'd be in your best interest to turn back here" because from there you basically climb steep metal stairs which change to steeper metal ladders along sheer rock face for 1 straight kilometer.
Unfortunately, today the fog got so bad that by the time we summited the big rock we didn't have any view. That said, we were so excited to be at the top and sitting down, we barely cared.
Here's a picture from the Korea tourism website, our own sweaty shots coming soon:
And then you get to a temple that was built in a cave in 652 - can you believe that people were building temples in caves in 652? - doesn't that just seem like infinitely so long ago that it can hardly be possible? And there is a guy selling soft serve and camp kids throwing ice at each other and then you see a tiny wooden sign that reads "Ulsabawi Rock, 1km." What the sign should say is "you are so screwed" or, better yet, "it'd be in your best interest to turn back here" because from there you basically climb steep metal stairs which change to steeper metal ladders along sheer rock face for 1 straight kilometer.
Unfortunately, today the fog got so bad that by the time we summited the big rock we didn't have any view. That said, we were so excited to be at the top and sitting down, we barely cared.
Here's a picture from the Korea tourism website, our own sweaty shots coming soon:
Tuesday, August 17, 2010
Sokcho, South Korea
We're in Sokcho, which is a beachy fishing town on the east coast of S. Korea, real close to the 38th parallel. This is a popular tourist destination for Koreans and Japanese beach goers and also a good launch pad for visiting the DMZ, which we're probably not going to do because there are, like, 10 amazing beaches within a bus ride and the area is known primarily for raw fish. So, educational day trips are just going to have to take a back seat for the moment.
Today was a gorgeous and perfectly sunny day for our first visit to Sokcho beach. The Koreans could learn us a few things about beach going. For example:
- Rather than umbrellas, you rent a big metal and canvass wall that bends in the middle and is propped up by a metal pole. This provides a huge rectangle of shade and never blows away. Best.
- Favored Korean beach snack: hot dog on a stick covered in French Fries. I had been looking forward to this since we got off the bus on Sunday (I pretty much talked about it all the way from Seoul) and it did not disappoint. I guess, really, how could it? Its a hot dog. And french fries. On a stick.
- People do NOT end their beach day at 5 p.m. to go home and shower and nap before cocktails and this I particularly enjoy. Why? Because being at the beach is my favorite thing on earth and I would stay there till dark if given the option. I feel vindicated when, at 6:30, my Korean brethren are just settling in with a bucket of chicken (not kidding) and big beers. They're probably still there now. Stay strong, guys.
Um, so onto a couple of really minor points of feedback that I'd probably share for the overall improvement of the beach experience for the local visitors.
- Science has given us a miraculous lotion that effectively combats UV rays. Its called sunscreen and can be purchased at the Family Mart across the street from here. So while I appreciate that modesty dictates y'all aren't going to be wearing thongs and banana hammocks, jeans with hoodies aren't really appropriate swimwear. We saw dozens of people in long pants or sleeves or both, with hats or hoods or both, in the Pacific today. Maybe just SPF it up and leave the socks (true story) on shore.
- I realize that a lot of folks around here aren't terribly comfortable in the water. And, while an inflatable tube/raft/swimmy is a sensible precaution, I feel you guys might be overdoing it. The roped off swim area at the beach ensures that if you are over 4 ft. 6, you can touch the bottom with your entire head above water even at the highest of tides. The life vest in concert with a flotation device and a loud shriek every time a 6 inch wave rolls in just feels campy. Maybe reign it in a drop.
Otherwise good times. And really enjoyed the lack of open container laws.
See you tomorrow.
Today was a gorgeous and perfectly sunny day for our first visit to Sokcho beach. The Koreans could learn us a few things about beach going. For example:
- Rather than umbrellas, you rent a big metal and canvass wall that bends in the middle and is propped up by a metal pole. This provides a huge rectangle of shade and never blows away. Best.
- Favored Korean beach snack: hot dog on a stick covered in French Fries. I had been looking forward to this since we got off the bus on Sunday (I pretty much talked about it all the way from Seoul) and it did not disappoint. I guess, really, how could it? Its a hot dog. And french fries. On a stick.
- People do NOT end their beach day at 5 p.m. to go home and shower and nap before cocktails and this I particularly enjoy. Why? Because being at the beach is my favorite thing on earth and I would stay there till dark if given the option. I feel vindicated when, at 6:30, my Korean brethren are just settling in with a bucket of chicken (not kidding) and big beers. They're probably still there now. Stay strong, guys.
Um, so onto a couple of really minor points of feedback that I'd probably share for the overall improvement of the beach experience for the local visitors.
- Science has given us a miraculous lotion that effectively combats UV rays. Its called sunscreen and can be purchased at the Family Mart across the street from here. So while I appreciate that modesty dictates y'all aren't going to be wearing thongs and banana hammocks, jeans with hoodies aren't really appropriate swimwear. We saw dozens of people in long pants or sleeves or both, with hats or hoods or both, in the Pacific today. Maybe just SPF it up and leave the socks (true story) on shore.
- I realize that a lot of folks around here aren't terribly comfortable in the water. And, while an inflatable tube/raft/swimmy is a sensible precaution, I feel you guys might be overdoing it. The roped off swim area at the beach ensures that if you are over 4 ft. 6, you can touch the bottom with your entire head above water even at the highest of tides. The life vest in concert with a flotation device and a loud shriek every time a 6 inch wave rolls in just feels campy. Maybe reign it in a drop.
Otherwise good times. And really enjoyed the lack of open container laws.
See you tomorrow.
Sunday, August 15, 2010
Activate Human Shield
When you leave home for distant lands, your loved ones remind you to "be safe." Often. And before coming here, we both gave some thought as to how we would take care of ourselves and each other and our crap during our travels.
Interestingly, I don't think either of us had spent much time preparing for what is surely the most dangerous threat we've encountered in Asia. Its not crime against foreigners. Not diseases we for which we aren't vaccinated. Its not food poisoning or malaria-carrying bugs. Its traffic. The traffic in the 3 major cities we've visited (Ulanbator, Beijing & Seoul) is fucking terrifying. In UB, its like the driving public is made up of drunk 14 year olds joyriding in stolen cars. The good folks of Beijing drive with one foot on the gas, one on the break, and both hands on the horn. In Seoul, while slightly less frenetic, stop lights seem to be a guideline and cars often swerve through crossing lanes to avoid the pedestrians who, theoretically, have the light.
In Beijing and Seoul, in particular, car culture has taken hold just in the last couple of decades and people are pretty amped about the complexity of the intersections they've managed to create. It is not at all uncommon to come to a 5 way stop, each direction 4 lanes wide, and stand at a corner pondering when might be an opportune time to grasp hands and sprint across the pavement.
The reason I'm typing this with none of my limbs encasted is that we devised a defense strategy using human shields. This started, in earnest, in Beijing when we were so gd confused as to when might be our turn to cross that we would blatantly choose a local-looking pedestrian to shadow. Over weeks the system was refined so that by the end of our time in Seoul, we were crossing large intersections surrounded on all sides by able-bodied, crossing-savvy Koreans.
To all the residents of Seoul and Beijing that we shamelessly tailed, thank you for your protection. We didn't mean to freak you out, we were just trying to be safe.
Interestingly, I don't think either of us had spent much time preparing for what is surely the most dangerous threat we've encountered in Asia. Its not crime against foreigners. Not diseases we for which we aren't vaccinated. Its not food poisoning or malaria-carrying bugs. Its traffic. The traffic in the 3 major cities we've visited (Ulanbator, Beijing & Seoul) is fucking terrifying. In UB, its like the driving public is made up of drunk 14 year olds joyriding in stolen cars. The good folks of Beijing drive with one foot on the gas, one on the break, and both hands on the horn. In Seoul, while slightly less frenetic, stop lights seem to be a guideline and cars often swerve through crossing lanes to avoid the pedestrians who, theoretically, have the light.
In Beijing and Seoul, in particular, car culture has taken hold just in the last couple of decades and people are pretty amped about the complexity of the intersections they've managed to create. It is not at all uncommon to come to a 5 way stop, each direction 4 lanes wide, and stand at a corner pondering when might be an opportune time to grasp hands and sprint across the pavement.
The reason I'm typing this with none of my limbs encasted is that we devised a defense strategy using human shields. This started, in earnest, in Beijing when we were so gd confused as to when might be our turn to cross that we would blatantly choose a local-looking pedestrian to shadow. Over weeks the system was refined so that by the end of our time in Seoul, we were crossing large intersections surrounded on all sides by able-bodied, crossing-savvy Koreans.
To all the residents of Seoul and Beijing that we shamelessly tailed, thank you for your protection. We didn't mean to freak you out, we were just trying to be safe.
Thursday, August 12, 2010
Seoul, Korea
We've just begun Day 4 in Seoul and I have to say, this is one of the easiest places to navigate that I've ever been. Seoul is spotlessly clean and well organized. The subway is intuitive, quick, and there is usually a map within view before you can say "where are we?" There isn't a massive amount of culture to get into, but as cities go, it kind of couldn't be more pleasant for hanging.
Our first day we wandered around the Insadong neighborhood, which isn't far from our motel. Its kind of half arty/half touristy, but still architecturally lovely and windy and oldish. Tons of galleries and little restaurants. That day we also hit Jongmyo temple and the Buddhist supply street. There is something unnerving & funny about seeing where the monks get their gear on. Its literally an entire street selling traditional garb, candles, beads, incense, finger sybols, really anything you could need for temple life. Watching the monks comparison shop for giant tassles just isn't something you see everyday.
Day 2 was an epic walk that included Namsan Park and the N Seoul Tower (pictures coming!) It was a perfect clear day, but epically hot. I'm not sure if we sweated more in the park or at the Great Wall but there seems, occassionally, to be a perfect storm of humidity, heat and direct sunlight that makes us sweat an abnormal amount. Glamorous, yes? Annoyingly, the locals endure the climate sans-perspiration. So when we arrive, panting, at the top of the mountain we look like we've been swimming. Doesn't really help us to blend... We wandered through the Naemdaemun Market, which is approximately the size of the town I grew up in, and ate the most delicious Korean BBQ I've ever had at a neighborhood joint that night.
Yesterday, Ed was reunited with the second great love of his life, Mister Donut. This is a Japanese chain that I'm sure many of you have heard him expound on. We feel the MD product in Korea might be slightly chewier than the Tokyo branch(es), but no less uniquely addicting. I once explained to Ed how eating more than 1 Krispy Kreme donut made me feel sick. But that when that happened, my brain would rationalize that the only cure was another donut. I can't remember where I was going with this. But now I want a donut.
After MD, we went to the Hongdae neighborhood, which was where I had wanted us to stay in Seoul. Hongdae University is there and its all windy alleys of boutiques, bars, restaurants, and multi-story buildings with Hof at the top and Clubs in the basement (business up front, party in the back). We got tickets for a B-boy show, walked the streets all afternoon and had a few lunches. The Seoul Fringe Festival was supposed to be kicking off right where we were, but it was pissing down and they must have started at least a couple of hours late, so we missed the OC.
BUT, the show was amazing. Its about 25 Korean kids that pop n' lock, freestyle, and breakdance in a tiny black box theater. It probably goes without saying that the anti-gravity shit these kids perform (how does his neck support his whole body for that long?) is jaw dropping. The audience was mostly youngish Korean girls, a pretty reserved bunch. The contrast of the dancers blowing it out to ear splitting music within 10 feet of a stock-still, politely clapping audience was odd. I did my part both in showing appreciation and embarrassing Ed with my seat-dancing. Woot!
After the show, we went to one of the seven thousand restaurants in the area for Chinese-ish Korean food. And Soju. The Soju here is way stronger and vodka-ier than in Japan. The hard drinking people of Seoul suck it down like water in the desert. We had 1 small bottle and 2 beers and I sang old Elton John songs all the way home (I rediscovered the Rare Masters collection in Mongolia. Current fave: Lady Samantha). Its 11:30 am here and Ed is still sleeping. Powerful stuff.
Now, about those donuts.
Our first day we wandered around the Insadong neighborhood, which isn't far from our motel. Its kind of half arty/half touristy, but still architecturally lovely and windy and oldish. Tons of galleries and little restaurants. That day we also hit Jongmyo temple and the Buddhist supply street. There is something unnerving & funny about seeing where the monks get their gear on. Its literally an entire street selling traditional garb, candles, beads, incense, finger sybols, really anything you could need for temple life. Watching the monks comparison shop for giant tassles just isn't something you see everyday.
Day 2 was an epic walk that included Namsan Park and the N Seoul Tower (pictures coming!) It was a perfect clear day, but epically hot. I'm not sure if we sweated more in the park or at the Great Wall but there seems, occassionally, to be a perfect storm of humidity, heat and direct sunlight that makes us sweat an abnormal amount. Glamorous, yes? Annoyingly, the locals endure the climate sans-perspiration. So when we arrive, panting, at the top of the mountain we look like we've been swimming. Doesn't really help us to blend... We wandered through the Naemdaemun Market, which is approximately the size of the town I grew up in, and ate the most delicious Korean BBQ I've ever had at a neighborhood joint that night.
Yesterday, Ed was reunited with the second great love of his life, Mister Donut. This is a Japanese chain that I'm sure many of you have heard him expound on. We feel the MD product in Korea might be slightly chewier than the Tokyo branch(es), but no less uniquely addicting. I once explained to Ed how eating more than 1 Krispy Kreme donut made me feel sick. But that when that happened, my brain would rationalize that the only cure was another donut. I can't remember where I was going with this. But now I want a donut.
After MD, we went to the Hongdae neighborhood, which was where I had wanted us to stay in Seoul. Hongdae University is there and its all windy alleys of boutiques, bars, restaurants, and multi-story buildings with Hof at the top and Clubs in the basement (business up front, party in the back). We got tickets for a B-boy show, walked the streets all afternoon and had a few lunches. The Seoul Fringe Festival was supposed to be kicking off right where we were, but it was pissing down and they must have started at least a couple of hours late, so we missed the OC.
BUT, the show was amazing. Its about 25 Korean kids that pop n' lock, freestyle, and breakdance in a tiny black box theater. It probably goes without saying that the anti-gravity shit these kids perform (how does his neck support his whole body for that long?) is jaw dropping. The audience was mostly youngish Korean girls, a pretty reserved bunch. The contrast of the dancers blowing it out to ear splitting music within 10 feet of a stock-still, politely clapping audience was odd. I did my part both in showing appreciation and embarrassing Ed with my seat-dancing. Woot!
After the show, we went to one of the seven thousand restaurants in the area for Chinese-ish Korean food. And Soju. The Soju here is way stronger and vodka-ier than in Japan. The hard drinking people of Seoul suck it down like water in the desert. We had 1 small bottle and 2 beers and I sang old Elton John songs all the way home (I rediscovered the Rare Masters collection in Mongolia. Current fave: Lady Samantha). Its 11:30 am here and Ed is still sleeping. Powerful stuff.
Now, about those donuts.
Monday, August 9, 2010
Chinese food again?
A common whine which escaped my lips during the weeks we were in China. We ate deliciously; a surfeit ranging from common street skewers to the fanciest Cantonese joint in Beijing. The Chinese style of ordering and corresponding prices could not have better suited me and my life partner. Ed, of "for the table" fame, could order surplus dishes as fast as he could point to them on other people's tables. And when the bill came, it almost never topped $5 US, so I didn't feel like we were letting precious travelling Yuan languish in oily plates of excess.
But there comes a time when the thought of another Schezuan peppercorn laden sizzler or bamboo steamer of perfect pork pillows looses appeal. This time for me came in Shenyang, where the shopping street we near housed such an abundance of fast food restaurants that I forgot I was in China. Had there been an Orange Julius in my sight line, I could have been in the food court at the Trumbull mall. Every night, as we left the hotel for dinner, I would jokingly beg Ed to take me to Pizza Hut. And every night he would grudgingly agree. I would, of course, back down. I didn't actually want the nasty Pizza Hut pizza but just, in those moments of weakness, really looovvveeeedddd the platonic idea of the Pizza Hut.
What I actually did crave and continue to wake thinking of, though, are sandwiches. From delis, or home made, or the chicken/mayo/hardroll bodega monstrosity that I've subjected many of you to. A BLT or a PB&J, even, might cure the near-fetishist feelings I harbor.
My kingdom for a ham & cheese, people. No fooling.
But there comes a time when the thought of another Schezuan peppercorn laden sizzler or bamboo steamer of perfect pork pillows looses appeal. This time for me came in Shenyang, where the shopping street we near housed such an abundance of fast food restaurants that I forgot I was in China. Had there been an Orange Julius in my sight line, I could have been in the food court at the Trumbull mall. Every night, as we left the hotel for dinner, I would jokingly beg Ed to take me to Pizza Hut. And every night he would grudgingly agree. I would, of course, back down. I didn't actually want the nasty Pizza Hut pizza but just, in those moments of weakness, really looovvveeeedddd the platonic idea of the Pizza Hut.
What I actually did crave and continue to wake thinking of, though, are sandwiches. From delis, or home made, or the chicken/mayo/hardroll bodega monstrosity that I've subjected many of you to. A BLT or a PB&J, even, might cure the near-fetishist feelings I harbor.
My kingdom for a ham & cheese, people. No fooling.
T-Shirts Part II
Shenyang was an interesting city. Signs in English, T-Shirts in English, No English speaking. The irony (and obvious drawback) was that I saw so many fewer nonsense T's. The sayings were weird as hell, but they basically made sense. There were a lot of song lyrics like "I love you more today than yesterday," and "Open your heart and smile" (that one may or may not be from a song) but basically they were legible.
I did cull these 3 for the highlight reel, which I will continue collecting in Korea.
Vamp the USA
Breaking 20 Hottie
and, personal favorite. In all caps, huge silver font on a pink ringer T:
JERRY
WTF?
I did cull these 3 for the highlight reel, which I will continue collecting in Korea.
Vamp the USA
Breaking 20 Hottie
and, personal favorite. In all caps, huge silver font on a pink ringer T:
JERRY
WTF?
CCTV
There was nothing I loved less about China than CCTV. But, sometimes, after a long day of temple-roaming and noodle sucking, you need a little downtime. In Beijing this was provided by CCTV in the form of distinctley uninformative world news, delivered in English, which I could usually only stand for about 12 minutes. In Shenyang, there wasn't an English station, or an English speaker that we could identify. So, I watched some sports.
When you need a hott second of familiarity sometimes its hard to get into a Chinese teen drama. But sports are the great leveler, no commentary necessary. Hell, I could've watched that shit on mute. This was kind of a revelation, because I don't watch any sports at home (including the Olympics) except occassionally to turn on golf for napping along to.
Oh, but did I mention what sports were on the telly? In order of appearance, not preference:
- Skeet shooting (world championship)
- Table Tennis (Chinese Nationals)
- Women's Volleyball (College World Finals)
I think if I can find the channel that plays these at home, I might be a convert.
When you need a hott second of familiarity sometimes its hard to get into a Chinese teen drama. But sports are the great leveler, no commentary necessary. Hell, I could've watched that shit on mute. This was kind of a revelation, because I don't watch any sports at home (including the Olympics) except occassionally to turn on golf for napping along to.
Oh, but did I mention what sports were on the telly? In order of appearance, not preference:
- Skeet shooting (world championship)
- Table Tennis (Chinese Nationals)
- Women's Volleyball (College World Finals)
I think if I can find the channel that plays these at home, I might be a convert.
Everybody's got Seoul, Seoul, Seoul
Hey people, we're in Korea! The Southern one, where they welcome the outsiders. I just had a chance to look through the blog and my heart positively swelled reading your comments. Which I haven't seen since Mongolia. Which was a while back. Oh, yeesh, but sorry about the formatting sitch. I had no idea what an assualt my words were on your eyes during the e-mail to blogger black out. Now that we're back in the free-wheelin' democracy (stayin' in a love motel, no less) I'll try to purdy it up for you.
Friday, August 6, 2010
Shopping. Well, browsing...
One of the very few but very tragic problems with our trip is that we have to carry all of our crap around with us indefinitely. In China, we've shopped and pawed and looked and discussed and can't really buy because the 14 pound gilt dragon I have my eye on ain't fitting in the carry on. But, we still browse and the Chinese do love them some retail therapy.
So, for those maybe going to Beijing, a rundown. Also, before you judge, a lot of these places are also architecturally interesting culturally important. Just saying.
Liulichang Hutong - A really beautiful and winding street selling all manner of calligraphy brushes and art supplies. Ancient shops run by ancient dudes practicing ancient arts. Also a couple of really nice
galleries in the mix. Worth a stroll.
Qianmen Dajie - 2 Thumbs down. Its the South Street Seaport of Beijing. The Inner Harbor, if you will. I'm pretty sure there was a Gap. Pass.
Panjiayuan Antique Market - So fun! So large! So needed more time! We ganged this up with the Glasses City day, they're real close together and not that convenient from the center of Beijing. The Antique market is AMAZING. You have your standard scroll aisle, your jade aisle, your books and trinkets and jewelry aisles. But the beauty part is the stalls around the edges where dudes with taste and a Type A personality have compulsively collected and cataloged their one special thing. One guy had a store that just sold pre-1950s
Chinese radios and antique cameras. One was selling mint condition vintage leather luggage. One had old maps. This place is a gem because its vast and fascinating, but mostly because it isn't there for the tourists. Regular Chinese people hit it on the weekends like any flea market in the US. No one tries to hassle you or talk you into shit you don't want or make you eat Peking Duck. I actually had to wake one guy up to ask him about a bracelet.
Xidan Shopping Center - For clothes, this is the right mid-market place. Its surrounded by chain stores but this 7 story mall was the beginning of the district and is still mobbed. Its Chinese style - mostly stalls rather than brick and mortar. You can't try stuff on that's on sale, prices seriously negotiable. Pretty good quality and some really cute stuff rather than just LV knockoffs and ugly Korean rhinestone-encrusted sunglasses. We went on a day that it poured and enjoyed the people watching, the browsing, and the food court.
There's also an arcade that looks to host some pretty fierce Dance Dance Revolution match ups.
Wangfujing Dajie - Close to the high rent district and not really our scene. Mostly big Western stores and high end Chinese department stores. The snack street right off of it was worth a wander. I especially enjoyed the sugar covered grape skewer.
Xizhimen - there is a 4 story department store right next to the Beijing Zoo that Ed and I hit when we realized we were going to a fancy restaurant with friends and were dressed like dirt bags. Ed got a button down for $10 and I got an awesome shirt on sale for $6. Most of the stuff is pretty ugly, but it is bottom of the barrel cheap if that's what you're after.
Oh, special not-so-insider's tip. If you don't want to interact with a salesperson in China, do NOT touch anything. A brush of a fingertip against the merch invites a lengthy and confusing interaction. It kind of goes like this: you pick something up, salesperson picks up something else that may or may not be tangentially related to the thing you picked up and then starts explaining things to you in Mandarin. You, eventually, put yours down and everyone walks away confused. Just look, and not directly if possible, for reals.
Shenyang seems to be a retail mecca, though I don't know if we'll have time to explore. No one loves a Cargo-Capri like the people of Northern China and I'm nearly convinced. Somebody help.
So, for those maybe going to Beijing, a rundown. Also, before you judge, a lot of these places are also architecturally interesting culturally important. Just saying.
Liulichang Hutong - A really beautiful and winding street selling all manner of calligraphy brushes and art supplies. Ancient shops run by ancient dudes practicing ancient arts. Also a couple of really nice
galleries in the mix. Worth a stroll.
Qianmen Dajie - 2 Thumbs down. Its the South Street Seaport of Beijing. The Inner Harbor, if you will. I'm pretty sure there was a Gap. Pass.
Panjiayuan Antique Market - So fun! So large! So needed more time! We ganged this up with the Glasses City day, they're real close together and not that convenient from the center of Beijing. The Antique market is AMAZING. You have your standard scroll aisle, your jade aisle, your books and trinkets and jewelry aisles. But the beauty part is the stalls around the edges where dudes with taste and a Type A personality have compulsively collected and cataloged their one special thing. One guy had a store that just sold pre-1950s
Chinese radios and antique cameras. One was selling mint condition vintage leather luggage. One had old maps. This place is a gem because its vast and fascinating, but mostly because it isn't there for the tourists. Regular Chinese people hit it on the weekends like any flea market in the US. No one tries to hassle you or talk you into shit you don't want or make you eat Peking Duck. I actually had to wake one guy up to ask him about a bracelet.
Xidan Shopping Center - For clothes, this is the right mid-market place. Its surrounded by chain stores but this 7 story mall was the beginning of the district and is still mobbed. Its Chinese style - mostly stalls rather than brick and mortar. You can't try stuff on that's on sale, prices seriously negotiable. Pretty good quality and some really cute stuff rather than just LV knockoffs and ugly Korean rhinestone-encrusted sunglasses. We went on a day that it poured and enjoyed the people watching, the browsing, and the food court.
There's also an arcade that looks to host some pretty fierce Dance Dance Revolution match ups.
Wangfujing Dajie - Close to the high rent district and not really our scene. Mostly big Western stores and high end Chinese department stores. The snack street right off of it was worth a wander. I especially enjoyed the sugar covered grape skewer.
Xizhimen - there is a 4 story department store right next to the Beijing Zoo that Ed and I hit when we realized we were going to a fancy restaurant with friends and were dressed like dirt bags. Ed got a button down for $10 and I got an awesome shirt on sale for $6. Most of the stuff is pretty ugly, but it is bottom of the barrel cheap if that's what you're after.
Oh, special not-so-insider's tip. If you don't want to interact with a salesperson in China, do NOT touch anything. A brush of a fingertip against the merch invites a lengthy and confusing interaction. It kind of goes like this: you pick something up, salesperson picks up something else that may or may not be tangentially related to the thing you picked up and then starts explaining things to you in Mandarin. You, eventually, put yours down and everyone walks away confused. Just look, and not directly if possible, for reals.
Shenyang seems to be a retail mecca, though I don't know if we'll have time to explore. No one loves a Cargo-Capri like the people of Northern China and I'm nearly convinced. Somebody help.
Everybody Shenyang Tonight
We're now in Shenyang, which was supposed to be the first stop on our Northern China loop. We were going to be here for 4 days, then head to Harbin, and Dalian before we went back to Beijing to start our travels in the South. Sadly, nature is not on our side. We initially canceled the Dalian trip because of the oil spill there. We were told by a friend who lives in Beijing that if the news was saying it was no bigs, we could pretty much rest assured that it was, indeed, bigs and that our beachy fun would be ruined.
Then came the floods. Initially we thought this would only impact the towns we had intended to visit in the South (Chengdu, Xi'an, Yangshuo) but now the flooding has spread to the North and the worst impact in Jilin separates us from Harbin. Considering the massive toll this is taking on the people of China and their economy, the inconvenience to
us really shouldn't be overstated. That said, it is frustrating that you can't access hard news about the situation or get a real understanding of how travel and transit are impacted. No flood maps, no in-depth news coverage, nada. Basically, CCTV will be like
"Flooding rocked the 3 Gorges area today with a massive death toll and billions of yuan in damage. And now this feature story about how awesome China is. Back to John Chang in the studio."
Its hard for me to accept that I can't control the weather (we're supposed to be making memories, here, people), but I'm trying to muster some travel zen and soldier on. Those of you who know me well understand that for me to release the strangled bunny and go to plan C is no easy ask. I'm working on the perfectionism/compulsion complex. I'll keep you posted.
Oh, but Shenyang! Its GREAT! People call it the armpit of China. The Newark, if you will. But its so so much more - its at least a shoulder and I highly recommend a visit. Since it rained, like, 4 inches yesterday we were rewarded with blue skies today for our visit to the amazing Bei Ling tombs in the North of the city. Having visited the Ming Tombs with Jose & Tichi & the fam, this was a very interesting contrast. Shenyang was the capital of the Manchurian dynasty, so many of the monuments were built before Peking was the big dog. Its smaller and less obsessively and overly restored and there are almost no tourists. So, you kind of get the run of amazing parks and grounds and ancient walls and tombs to run amok upon. Not that we did. Amok it.
Tomorrow we hit the Imperial Palace which is supposed to be Forbidden City-ish but on a smaller scale. I've fully recovered from the cold/fever/bug thing that was holding me back, so I'm back in full effect as Planny McPlannerson. While Ed is outwardly pleased that I'm
feeling my old snarky self, I know there is a part of him that misses the slightly sluggish and dialed back Rodney. The few days where I requested naps and didn't insist on sucking the very life out of every moment were maybe a nice respite for him. Hm.
Then came the floods. Initially we thought this would only impact the towns we had intended to visit in the South (Chengdu, Xi'an, Yangshuo) but now the flooding has spread to the North and the worst impact in Jilin separates us from Harbin. Considering the massive toll this is taking on the people of China and their economy, the inconvenience to
us really shouldn't be overstated. That said, it is frustrating that you can't access hard news about the situation or get a real understanding of how travel and transit are impacted. No flood maps, no in-depth news coverage, nada. Basically, CCTV will be like
"Flooding rocked the 3 Gorges area today with a massive death toll and billions of yuan in damage. And now this feature story about how awesome China is. Back to John Chang in the studio."
Its hard for me to accept that I can't control the weather (we're supposed to be making memories, here, people), but I'm trying to muster some travel zen and soldier on. Those of you who know me well understand that for me to release the strangled bunny and go to plan C is no easy ask. I'm working on the perfectionism/compulsion complex. I'll keep you posted.
Oh, but Shenyang! Its GREAT! People call it the armpit of China. The Newark, if you will. But its so so much more - its at least a shoulder and I highly recommend a visit. Since it rained, like, 4 inches yesterday we were rewarded with blue skies today for our visit to the amazing Bei Ling tombs in the North of the city. Having visited the Ming Tombs with Jose & Tichi & the fam, this was a very interesting contrast. Shenyang was the capital of the Manchurian dynasty, so many of the monuments were built before Peking was the big dog. Its smaller and less obsessively and overly restored and there are almost no tourists. So, you kind of get the run of amazing parks and grounds and ancient walls and tombs to run amok upon. Not that we did. Amok it.
Tomorrow we hit the Imperial Palace which is supposed to be Forbidden City-ish but on a smaller scale. I've fully recovered from the cold/fever/bug thing that was holding me back, so I'm back in full effect as Planny McPlannerson. While Ed is outwardly pleased that I'm
feeling my old snarky self, I know there is a part of him that misses the slightly sluggish and dialed back Rodney. The few days where I requested naps and didn't insist on sucking the very life out of every moment were maybe a nice respite for him. Hm.
Tuesday, August 3, 2010
Fashion Shmashion
There are a couple of trends here that are a bit surprising. The first is the anklet stocking under sandals. I'm guessing this is a practicality due to the heat, maybe, but it looks pretty ridiculous. I've seen both men and women rocking black, ankle high, stockings
(like a high ped) under tevas, platforms, and strappy sandals. Its not their best work.
The second relates to toddlers. Diapers aren't really used around here and kids are held aloft by their parents to do biz in public. In order to avoid messes, I suppose, the child clothing designers have devised a workaround. Kids clothes just don't have butt fabric. Sort of, like, chaps for the toddler set. Its a little disconcerting at first but I suppose ultimately good for the environment. I'm hopeful that in winter the trap door is closed, for the sake of the kids.
Lastly, English slogan T-shirts. I would seriously love to meet the graphic artists/ad wiz who decides chooses disjointed English words to plaster across the chests of teenagers here. The nonsense phrases beg the questions - do these kids know what their shirts say? Do they care? Are the words just abstract designs to look at, or do they think they say something? Here is a sampling of such shirts from the last 2 days. Yesterday we hit up the Olympic Park, which was ripe with 'em.
I Heart Simple Keep On Going
IF Marine Life
Bullet Life Paris Woman
The Blue Taxiway
Sing Rock Animal Van
Travel Fox 1985
Buckarod Love Rock [not buckaroo, but buckarod]
Sassy Girl Denim 55
Crazylips [repeated all over the shirt in different fonts]
Magic Jump Slowly Original
University S of W Fashionistas
Poo since 1968
Expectation Value
Strangest Roommates Same Difference
Hard Undertaking
I'm sort of inclined to keep recording these, if only for my own amusement. Perhaps I'll have another installment of T-shirt madness after we travel to a few more towns in China.
(like a high ped) under tevas, platforms, and strappy sandals. Its not their best work.
The second relates to toddlers. Diapers aren't really used around here and kids are held aloft by their parents to do biz in public. In order to avoid messes, I suppose, the child clothing designers have devised a workaround. Kids clothes just don't have butt fabric. Sort of, like, chaps for the toddler set. Its a little disconcerting at first but I suppose ultimately good for the environment. I'm hopeful that in winter the trap door is closed, for the sake of the kids.
Lastly, English slogan T-shirts. I would seriously love to meet the graphic artists/ad wiz who decides chooses disjointed English words to plaster across the chests of teenagers here. The nonsense phrases beg the questions - do these kids know what their shirts say? Do they care? Are the words just abstract designs to look at, or do they think they say something? Here is a sampling of such shirts from the last 2 days. Yesterday we hit up the Olympic Park, which was ripe with 'em.
I Heart Simple Keep On Going
IF Marine Life
Bullet Life Paris Woman
The Blue Taxiway
Sing Rock Animal Van
Travel Fox 1985
Buckarod Love Rock [not buckaroo, but buckarod]
Sassy Girl Denim 55
Crazylips [repeated all over the shirt in different fonts]
Magic Jump Slowly Original
University S of W Fashionistas
Poo since 1968
Expectation Value
Strangest Roommates Same Difference
Hard Undertaking
I'm sort of inclined to keep recording these, if only for my own amusement. Perhaps I'll have another installment of T-shirt madness after we travel to a few more towns in China.
In lieu of diamonds, gold and platinum reminders will still shine bright
If any of you are Billy Joel fans and really stuck with him right up through the River of Dreams days, I challenge you to go to the Great Wall and refrain from singing the song "The Great Wall of China." You can't! Its too fun!
Hollis' friend & boss Jose and his family were in Beijing at the same time we were and hosted us on their trip to the Wall. The first day,we went to Mutianyu and practically had the run of the place. We took the chair-lift to the top and hiked east until we couldn't go further. This section of the wall has been well restored and overlooks a beautiful valley. There are hundreds of steps up and down and we were all sweaty and panting even at a leisurely pace. Its hard to imagine the Imperial Army running up and down those same stairs and hoisting boulders over the sides as they fought off attackers. The Wall itself is a thing of beauty. There were originally 7 or more sections protecting various kingdoms and it wasn't until much later that they were connected to make one biggun. Even though the purpose for the structure was military defense, amazing craftsmanship went into the construction and the towers and roofing have beautiful detail work. Nowadays you can ride down on an from Mutianyu on an Alpine Slide - I highly recommend!
That evening we stayed in an amazing house near a section of the Great Wall not listed in the guidebooks. The next morning we climbed up to an area of the Wall called Shuigan that hasn't been restored. Parts were steep and perilous and there were long stretches where brush and trees had grown; nature had been allowed to take over. Because the
trail left from the hotel, we were completely on our own up there. Seeing it that way, without hawkers or other tourists, likely doesn't happen for many people and for us was once in a lifetime.
We really can't thank our hosts, Tichi & Jose, enough. We so enjoyed spending time with them and their girls (see Ed's flickr) and had an unforgettable experience.
Hollis' friend & boss Jose and his family were in Beijing at the same time we were and hosted us on their trip to the Wall. The first day,we went to Mutianyu and practically had the run of the place. We took the chair-lift to the top and hiked east until we couldn't go further. This section of the wall has been well restored and overlooks a beautiful valley. There are hundreds of steps up and down and we were all sweaty and panting even at a leisurely pace. Its hard to imagine the Imperial Army running up and down those same stairs and hoisting boulders over the sides as they fought off attackers. The Wall itself is a thing of beauty. There were originally 7 or more sections protecting various kingdoms and it wasn't until much later that they were connected to make one biggun. Even though the purpose for the structure was military defense, amazing craftsmanship went into the construction and the towers and roofing have beautiful detail work. Nowadays you can ride down on an from Mutianyu on an Alpine Slide - I highly recommend!
That evening we stayed in an amazing house near a section of the Great Wall not listed in the guidebooks. The next morning we climbed up to an area of the Wall called Shuigan that hasn't been restored. Parts were steep and perilous and there were long stretches where brush and trees had grown; nature had been allowed to take over. Because the
trail left from the hotel, we were completely on our own up there. Seeing it that way, without hawkers or other tourists, likely doesn't happen for many people and for us was once in a lifetime.
We really can't thank our hosts, Tichi & Jose, enough. We so enjoyed spending time with them and their girls (see Ed's flickr) and had an unforgettable experience.
Brief Summaries of Stuff We Did
Spending a couple of weeks in Beijing is like spending a couple of weeks in New York. You know you're never going to see all of it, and you have to weigh the tourist stuff you should see with the neighborhoods you want to check out, stuff you want to eat, shopping you want to do, etc. I think we've struck a pretty good balance, although we could spend another 3 weeks here and not be close to finished with our list.
I've already talked about Tiananmen and 798, both must sees if you come here.
Beihei Park & the White Dagoba - I'm a big fan of parks and the Chinese really know from gardens. The centerpiece is a humongous lake, much of which is covered with lily pads as big as the paddle boats puttering across them. Its also about 10 degrees cooler within the walls of the park which, on the days where the humidity is unbearable, makes it a nice break from the heat.
The Forbidden City - you have to go, so there isn't really any point in commenting. We earnestly asked a friend over beers if we could skip it, having heard terrible reviews: the sea of umbrella toting tourists, overcrowding, pushing, lack of shade, mile-long lines. He
thought for about 45 seconds and said "No. I'm sorry. You just have to go." So, we did. And you probably will too. The buildings are impressive (kind of the point) and there are a couple of interesting exhibits. Overall, though, it was the most unpleasant tourist experience we've had since leaving NYC. Glad that's done.
Beijing Zoo - PANDAS! We may not get to Chengdu because of the flooding, so it was important to see these furry smooshes in a totally unnatural environment. They're so effing cute, I found myself with my face pressed against the glass for ages. The grounds of the zoo are quite lush, with streams and Chinese willows abounding. The Chinese
haven't jumped on the more humanitarian zoo wagon - there aren't facsimiles of natural environments for the animals. They still keep panthers in 12 x 12 cement cages and the big cats pace angrily against the bars. Side note, people totally bring snacks to feed the animals in the zoo, which isn't something you see everyday. A group of Chinese boys used slices of bread to get a grizzly bear to do tricks in its cement pit. So, really, its part zoo and part circus and all strange and mostly depressing. But, PANDAS!
Lake District - The southern end has a few bar streets with men shouting at you to come in and listen to "My Sharona" and drink Bud. But the Northern end is where, during the day, middle aged Chinese men go to cool off in the lake and people practice Tai Chi. They gather in a spot right under a "No Swimming" sign and paddle around. Its pretty and misty and there are ancient towers rising through the fog/smog on both sides. A lovely stroll.
Former Residence of Soong Ching Ling - coming here, I was a little fuzzy on the details of Chinese history. I'm familiar with Mao's work and knew he supplanted the dynasty structure. But I was a little hazy on where Sun Yat Sen fit in and how and when the People's Republic was born. This residence is a former prince's residence, given to Soon
Ching Ling as a retirement home. She was Sen's wife for about 10 (pretty important) years, and became one of Mao's top officials. The grounds are stunning and the museum is pretty informative, though be prepared for heavy-handed pro-communist spin. Also, she was really into pigeons.
Mao's Tomb or, as we've renamed it, the Maosoleum - I definitely recommend a visit, even though the whole thing is a logistical PIA and you're only in the room with his waxy corpse for about 15 seconds. You have to check your bag, wait in a massive line, empty your pockets, take of your hat and be completely silent for the viewing. His face appears lit from within, like an orange Glo-Worm, but the pomp and circumstance of the whole thing is worthwhile. The only real disappointment was the gift stands out back. All of the merch was tasteful, his likeness only slapped on things you would find in a high
end office gifts store; fountain pens, key chains, framed art. We were hoping for a bit more kitsch but, alas, our dreams of Mao Pez dispensers and boxer shorts was not to be.
Gulou Neighborhood - we've wandered a lot of hutongs and explored quite a few areas of the city since we've been here. This is one of our faves. Gulou is where the tiny seedling of punk rock seems to live in Beijing. Off the main street is the Nanluogo Xiang, which is
the Abbot-Kinney or Bedford Avenue of Beijing. Tons of cute shops, bars with roof decks, snack foods and winding, ancient hutongs.
Bell & Drum Towers - one of the things that's so awesome about Beijing is that its a modern city with all the conveniences of a cosmopolitan metropolis but you can round a corner and see something from the 13 century. These towers were once used for musical purposes and were built by the Mongolians. Now, they're pretty much for tourists to
look at or climb up.
Imperial Hutongs - I'm obsessed with Eunuchs!!!! This is where they lived during the Ming Dynasty. Really well-preserved buildings with the original tile roofs.
We still want to hit the Summer Palace & the Olympic grounds but I've been slowed down by a nasty summer cold, and we leave tomorrow night.
We'll be back, though, for sure!
I've already talked about Tiananmen and 798, both must sees if you come here.
Beihei Park & the White Dagoba - I'm a big fan of parks and the Chinese really know from gardens. The centerpiece is a humongous lake, much of which is covered with lily pads as big as the paddle boats puttering across them. Its also about 10 degrees cooler within the walls of the park which, on the days where the humidity is unbearable, makes it a nice break from the heat.
The Forbidden City - you have to go, so there isn't really any point in commenting. We earnestly asked a friend over beers if we could skip it, having heard terrible reviews: the sea of umbrella toting tourists, overcrowding, pushing, lack of shade, mile-long lines. He
thought for about 45 seconds and said "No. I'm sorry. You just have to go." So, we did. And you probably will too. The buildings are impressive (kind of the point) and there are a couple of interesting exhibits. Overall, though, it was the most unpleasant tourist experience we've had since leaving NYC. Glad that's done.
Beijing Zoo - PANDAS! We may not get to Chengdu because of the flooding, so it was important to see these furry smooshes in a totally unnatural environment. They're so effing cute, I found myself with my face pressed against the glass for ages. The grounds of the zoo are quite lush, with streams and Chinese willows abounding. The Chinese
haven't jumped on the more humanitarian zoo wagon - there aren't facsimiles of natural environments for the animals. They still keep panthers in 12 x 12 cement cages and the big cats pace angrily against the bars. Side note, people totally bring snacks to feed the animals in the zoo, which isn't something you see everyday. A group of Chinese boys used slices of bread to get a grizzly bear to do tricks in its cement pit. So, really, its part zoo and part circus and all strange and mostly depressing. But, PANDAS!
Lake District - The southern end has a few bar streets with men shouting at you to come in and listen to "My Sharona" and drink Bud. But the Northern end is where, during the day, middle aged Chinese men go to cool off in the lake and people practice Tai Chi. They gather in a spot right under a "No Swimming" sign and paddle around. Its pretty and misty and there are ancient towers rising through the fog/smog on both sides. A lovely stroll.
Former Residence of Soong Ching Ling - coming here, I was a little fuzzy on the details of Chinese history. I'm familiar with Mao's work and knew he supplanted the dynasty structure. But I was a little hazy on where Sun Yat Sen fit in and how and when the People's Republic was born. This residence is a former prince's residence, given to Soon
Ching Ling as a retirement home. She was Sen's wife for about 10 (pretty important) years, and became one of Mao's top officials. The grounds are stunning and the museum is pretty informative, though be prepared for heavy-handed pro-communist spin. Also, she was really into pigeons.
Mao's Tomb or, as we've renamed it, the Maosoleum - I definitely recommend a visit, even though the whole thing is a logistical PIA and you're only in the room with his waxy corpse for about 15 seconds. You have to check your bag, wait in a massive line, empty your pockets, take of your hat and be completely silent for the viewing. His face appears lit from within, like an orange Glo-Worm, but the pomp and circumstance of the whole thing is worthwhile. The only real disappointment was the gift stands out back. All of the merch was tasteful, his likeness only slapped on things you would find in a high
end office gifts store; fountain pens, key chains, framed art. We were hoping for a bit more kitsch but, alas, our dreams of Mao Pez dispensers and boxer shorts was not to be.
Gulou Neighborhood - we've wandered a lot of hutongs and explored quite a few areas of the city since we've been here. This is one of our faves. Gulou is where the tiny seedling of punk rock seems to live in Beijing. Off the main street is the Nanluogo Xiang, which is
the Abbot-Kinney or Bedford Avenue of Beijing. Tons of cute shops, bars with roof decks, snack foods and winding, ancient hutongs.
Bell & Drum Towers - one of the things that's so awesome about Beijing is that its a modern city with all the conveniences of a cosmopolitan metropolis but you can round a corner and see something from the 13 century. These towers were once used for musical purposes and were built by the Mongolians. Now, they're pretty much for tourists to
look at or climb up.
Imperial Hutongs - I'm obsessed with Eunuchs!!!! This is where they lived during the Ming Dynasty. Really well-preserved buildings with the original tile roofs.
We still want to hit the Summer Palace & the Olympic grounds but I've been slowed down by a nasty summer cold, and we leave tomorrow night.
We'll be back, though, for sure!
Sunday, August 1, 2010
The Economics of the Cluster
I did piss-poorly in the 3 mandatory levels of economics I had to take in college. One professor, in particular, passed me out of sheer pity. He and I both knew that I hadn't grasped a single concept the entire semester and that a repeat performance would, in all
likelihood, result in the same outcome. Since then, I've picked up some snippets here and there. You know, like how competition works in the marketplace. That differentiation on price, product, location are key drivers for profit. That supply should keep pace with demand and that an identical business opening next door to yours will, in all
likelihood, eat in to your customer base.
So, the Chinese market principles we've seen in Beijing are nothing short of confounding. Yesterday we went to "Glasses City." This is a city block (about 1/8 mile) of 4 story malls containing nothing but glasses shops. As a tourist, wandering around store after store is
amusing and overwhelming. As a shop owner, it must be exhausting. Most of the stores have overlapping merchandise. Without even beginning to bargain, a salesperson might offer 50% off of the listed prices. I guess when you have 300 stores within spitting distance (Don't get me started on the spitting. In restaurants! People just spit on the floor! Like, someone has to mop that up later. Please. Gross.) you do what you have to to make a sale. Ed had an eye exam, frames, and prescription lenses done in 20 minutes for $25.
The overcrowded marketplace isn't limited to the optical business. You see this trend all over Beijing, particularly on the bar streets. Bar culture in China is only about 30 years old, and is pretty much ring-fenced to certain areas. Wandering down a street or hutong, you aren't going to run into a neighborhood watering hole. But when you go to a bar street and see the fierceness of the competition and the number of choices available to the drinking public, you scratch your head.
About a week ago, we went to Sanlitun bar area (or barea, as we're calling them) with a crew of Dutch girls we met at the Red Lantern and our new friend Scott. The area is close to the business center of BJ, high rent district. Bar after bar after bar after nasty 3rd Eye
Blind-blaring bar line block after block. The drinks are sold at Western prices (40 RMB/6 US) so the crowd is mostly Western & Chinese businessmen and tourists. As an aside, we saw a totally amazing Phillipine cover band at the maybe-Western themed bar we chose. We fondly referred to the lead singer as Asian Gwen Stefani, although she had braces and sounded much more like Alanis Morisette. Which was confirmed when she opened with "You Oughta Know."
This corny evening also gave us a chance to examine the mating rituals of the not-so-rare species known as Americanus Bloatus Expatria. These multi-chinned, bright polo-clad males could be seen in the bar buying expensive drinks for equally
expensive, gorgeous, young, Chinese girls/escorts.
The Lake district houses a barea called Houhai - same deal here. Everyone is charging ten times as much for beer as in a restaurant or local store (4 RMB/.60 cents) and thus need to employ hawkers/wranglers to stand outside all night shouting/cajoling/begging
customers to enter their establishments. As people who like bars and beers, this begs the question - why compete? Perhaps there is law governing this? Considering that in
some areas you could walk for miles and never see a bar, it seems like there are easier locations to start your business. Maybe someday Ed and I will return to Beijing to start up a biker/beirut/jukebox concept bar and plop it down amidst a knot of hutongs. Someone needs to give these folks some access to decent music. For serious.
likelihood, result in the same outcome. Since then, I've picked up some snippets here and there. You know, like how competition works in the marketplace. That differentiation on price, product, location are key drivers for profit. That supply should keep pace with demand and that an identical business opening next door to yours will, in all
likelihood, eat in to your customer base.
So, the Chinese market principles we've seen in Beijing are nothing short of confounding. Yesterday we went to "Glasses City." This is a city block (about 1/8 mile) of 4 story malls containing nothing but glasses shops. As a tourist, wandering around store after store is
amusing and overwhelming. As a shop owner, it must be exhausting. Most of the stores have overlapping merchandise. Without even beginning to bargain, a salesperson might offer 50% off of the listed prices. I guess when you have 300 stores within spitting distance (Don't get me started on the spitting. In restaurants! People just spit on the floor! Like, someone has to mop that up later. Please. Gross.) you do what you have to to make a sale. Ed had an eye exam, frames, and prescription lenses done in 20 minutes for $25.
The overcrowded marketplace isn't limited to the optical business. You see this trend all over Beijing, particularly on the bar streets. Bar culture in China is only about 30 years old, and is pretty much ring-fenced to certain areas. Wandering down a street or hutong, you aren't going to run into a neighborhood watering hole. But when you go to a bar street and see the fierceness of the competition and the number of choices available to the drinking public, you scratch your head.
About a week ago, we went to Sanlitun bar area (or barea, as we're calling them) with a crew of Dutch girls we met at the Red Lantern and our new friend Scott. The area is close to the business center of BJ, high rent district. Bar after bar after bar after nasty 3rd Eye
Blind-blaring bar line block after block. The drinks are sold at Western prices (40 RMB/6 US) so the crowd is mostly Western & Chinese businessmen and tourists. As an aside, we saw a totally amazing Phillipine cover band at the maybe-Western themed bar we chose. We fondly referred to the lead singer as Asian Gwen Stefani, although she had braces and sounded much more like Alanis Morisette. Which was confirmed when she opened with "You Oughta Know."
This corny evening also gave us a chance to examine the mating rituals of the not-so-rare species known as Americanus Bloatus Expatria. These multi-chinned, bright polo-clad males could be seen in the bar buying expensive drinks for equally
expensive, gorgeous, young, Chinese girls/escorts.
The Lake district houses a barea called Houhai - same deal here. Everyone is charging ten times as much for beer as in a restaurant or local store (4 RMB/.60 cents) and thus need to employ hawkers/wranglers to stand outside all night shouting/cajoling/begging
customers to enter their establishments. As people who like bars and beers, this begs the question - why compete? Perhaps there is law governing this? Considering that in
some areas you could walk for miles and never see a bar, it seems like there are easier locations to start your business. Maybe someday Ed and I will return to Beijing to start up a biker/beirut/jukebox concept bar and plop it down amidst a knot of hutongs. Someone needs to give these folks some access to decent music. For serious.
798 District
So, unfortunately with this no-blogger situation, I can't post pictures or links or files or much of anything but words (use your words!). Ed, though, is in the downloading/selecting/uploading hamster wheel, so please check there for photographic evidence of what's happs with us. I think there's a link on the right...
Ed and I travel very compatibly, but we do have one fundamental difference in style; he feels no obligation to do tourist crap that doesn't interest him. Like, he could comfortably go to Paris and skip the Eiffel Tower if he wasn't in the mood. I, however, feel a gnawing
guilt about not checking off the tourist highlight reel. Its like I think the dude at Immigration is going to ask how many hours I spent in the Forbidden City (none yet, incidentally).
All this is to say that District 798 satisfied both of our requirements for a couple of afternoons well spent. Its an area on the fringes of the city that is made up of re-purposed factories now housing artist work spaces, lofts, cafes and galleries. There are probably one to two hundred galleries throughout the district and a few smaller museums.
Given the restrictions in China, its interesting to see that the fine arts have seemingly escaped the censors. A significant number of the shows deal with social and political topics. The artists are criticize Mao freely and do so by subverting the same iconography used by the communist party. Because the district is so large and there are dozens of large courtyards sprinkled throughout, there is plenty of space for large format installations. Big, naked, dudes seem to be a favorite subject for sculpture. And there is one plaza filled entirely with life sized metal wolves. They're highly photogenic.
Since coffee and art are like peas and carrots, dozens of small cafes have sprung up amidst the galleries offering lattes and bubble tea. These highly air conditioned oases are a nice break from the 100 degree weather and give you a boost to see ten or twelve more
galleries before hopping a crowded bus out of this alternate universe, back to Beijing.
Ed and I travel very compatibly, but we do have one fundamental difference in style; he feels no obligation to do tourist crap that doesn't interest him. Like, he could comfortably go to Paris and skip the Eiffel Tower if he wasn't in the mood. I, however, feel a gnawing
guilt about not checking off the tourist highlight reel. Its like I think the dude at Immigration is going to ask how many hours I spent in the Forbidden City (none yet, incidentally).
All this is to say that District 798 satisfied both of our requirements for a couple of afternoons well spent. Its an area on the fringes of the city that is made up of re-purposed factories now housing artist work spaces, lofts, cafes and galleries. There are probably one to two hundred galleries throughout the district and a few smaller museums.
Given the restrictions in China, its interesting to see that the fine arts have seemingly escaped the censors. A significant number of the shows deal with social and political topics. The artists are criticize Mao freely and do so by subverting the same iconography used by the communist party. Because the district is so large and there are dozens of large courtyards sprinkled throughout, there is plenty of space for large format installations. Big, naked, dudes seem to be a favorite subject for sculpture. And there is one plaza filled entirely with life sized metal wolves. They're highly photogenic.
Since coffee and art are like peas and carrots, dozens of small cafes have sprung up amidst the galleries offering lattes and bubble tea. These highly air conditioned oases are a nice break from the 100 degree weather and give you a boost to see ten or twelve more
galleries before hopping a crowded bus out of this alternate universe, back to Beijing.
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